1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Saabriel:
I have to say right up front that my FRONT door experience so far is limited to pulling the inner panels off a junkyard car and harvesting the exterior door handles, plus the plastic guard that helps carry the key-switch indicating cable down around the door glass.
Really soon, I plan to install those in my car, and do a thorough cleaning and lubing at the same time on the front doors -- steps I advised others to take BEFORE tackling the door lock controller, but I was too lazy and front latches seem freer than my rear ones were.
I think things are somewhat parallel to the rear door latch setup. For that, once the external latching arm is removed, with the three T45 bolts (I'd suggest working some oil into that, swinging the arms through their motion several times, then wiping up the excess) you still have a couple of fasteners to remove to get the latch works out of the door.
To be working inside the door at all you need to remove the plastic inner liner, at least partially. If it hasn't already been torn or removed, you should use a single edge razor blade and cut thru the urethane goo that sticks it to the door, working from top to bottom. Leave it intact and it might mostly re-stick when you put it back; I used wide masking tape to hitch it on in a few places.
The inner door handle will have a long rod linking it to the latch works. There's a standard sort of plastic fastener that you push sideways off the rod at latch end, then push out 45 to 90 degrees, then the rod's bent end will pull right out of the latch works.
There's a similar rod coming down from the inner lock button, ditto as above, unless this all stays attached to the latchworks and comes out with it - - you should be able to tell.
Then there's a poppet-ball linkage from the external door handle's lock cylinder to the latch works. Plastic socket on end of a rod off the latch works has a top that pops up, which lets the socket open a little and the ball comes out without forcing. On the junkyard car I didn't see this and the whole handle came free with minor force, popping that ball out without releasing the split socket. Didn't seem to have done any harm. I think you can get to the split-socket clamping feature from inside, reaching over the top of things with a long screwdriver, if your window glass is all the way up.
Then, on the back door and I bet the front, there was a very small Torx head screw in the end of the door under the removed latch plate, really only a locating screw, not much of a fastener, but it needs to come out.
Also on the back doors, a push-the-plastic-pin-all-the-way-through black fastener on the sheet metal edge of the door interior was the last big fastener for latch works. It was in center of a black 1/4"-headed plastic rivet, pushes out and drops inside door, then the prongs are released and that rivet will pull out.
Besides the above, two electrical plugs, which are tied to the inner door frame with zip ties that need to be snipped and replaced later.
For lube, if I lived in California or a fairly warm and rain-free climate I'd just use say WD-40 or something to work all the mechanisms free and wash away any corrosion or old crud, and then either 3-in-1 or other light machine oil, or regular motor oil, to work into the moving parts and serve as the longer term lube.
My ideas about lubing are for corroded old latchworks in nasty wet and cold New England, maybe overkill for where you live. And maybe taking anything apart at all is overkill for you - - I've seen a few older cars from California and lots of that stuff inside doors and under hoods looks new.
Know, that when you put that plate back on that you have removed, the one with the three T45 bolts, you need to have the latch in it clicked to close, so that the skinny one of the two pins coming out of it is at the top of its arc and enters into the top of a notch in a swivelling nylon piece on the inner latch works. That nylon piece has a tiny magnet at its bottom end, and its motion as the latch is opened or closed trips the blue reed switch on the latch works, which signals the pictogram whether the door is opened or closed.
I missed this trick on my first rear door and the latch plate was in open position when I put it together. The skinny pin was moving outside and alongside the nylon piece and bent it up a little, but once I figured it out and reassembled correctly it worked fine again.
Good luck
posted by 71.241.213...
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