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Saab Model 99 Bulletin Board
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Here's the lowdown so far...
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Posted by Dan [Email] (#2459) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Dan) on Fri, 5 Dec 2003 23:41:28 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: No advice, just interested., Sven, Fri, 5 Dec 2003 15:08:13
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Of course. I wasn't thinking when I decided to do this project but have had to do a whole lot of it since starting. Initially, I would have simply changed over to CIS. Not simple at all. Then to carbs...dual if possible (again, would have had real issues with air filters vs. the vacuum booster.) I couldn't find a manifold so I went to the idea of keeping the D-jet. Manifold again a problem. I decided that with the fuel pumps for the LH and D-jet producing relatively the same pressure, going to LH would be my best bet. Now, the first problem: where to put the alternator. I have it in the usual spot on my '76 99 16V Turbo (modified booster) and have put it where the AC generally goes...but neither isn't possible with the '72. I opted to keep it under the exhaust like on the 1.85L. Using the 1.85L bracket, I added stair-stepped tabs allowing mounting via the block to tranny bolts. I had to extend the alt. bracket part about an inch and a half toward the firewall to line it up and used an alternator from a '75 99 parts car (shorter than the '72, smaller diameter than the '87) everything fits great. I did have to make an adjustment bracket...easy though. Using the 99 bracket and the end of the 900 bracket. a good weld and bolted it right on to the head. Works great. I moved the firewall back further than normal for the harmonic balancer due to not finding a decent 2 groove from an early 900. I went too far but boy do I have room! Too far is relative, as well, as It didn't hurt anything, really.
Next, the brake booster: I've had to raise it about 3/4 of an inch...that's all I have really. I have also tilted the booster via spacers on the bottom two studs. This will keep the pedal and booster lined up better along with providing more room for the oil filter housing (not much there.) The oil sender is gone. hole plugged up. I'll probably just put the sender in where the turbo oil line would go. Probably a better place to get a quicker warning anyway. Only fear is that the light might come on a bit prematurely. The reservoir will not fit without modification. I "softened one up that I had here and made it fit, barely, but it would work (softened with a small propane torch) but any further distortion would have messed with the cap, so I have opted to go sonett style and suspend the reservoir above the master and have feed tubes bridge the gap.
I've had to do some cut and weld with the pedal bracket (cut off face, move it up 3/4 of an inch) in order to keep the same hole in the right place for support but it worked out fine.
The final thing that "doesn't quite fit" is the inlet hose for the heater core. It is RIGHT where the water pump pully sits. i have the single groove pully and have heated and slightly bent that inlet (copper) toward the driver's side. I'll have to find a fairly sharp right angle piece of hose and loop it up and over the valve but It should work.

Oh yeah, I also moved the right side brake line from the firewall to the "shelf' . i just bent it carfully in to place. there is plenty of slack in the line for the move and now the risk of the engine torqueing into the line is eliminated.

Now, on to the electric crap. I'll let you know how it goes. Any one who has done this, feel free to help a brother out. Anyone interested in contacting me about it, feel free...please.

dan

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