1950-1966 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
I feel that y'all are making this too complicated, probably with some help from a manual, many valve adjust procedures are written as you describe, so that half the valves are adjusted in one position, the engine is moved once, and the other half adjusted. There is nothing wrong with this procedure except you have to keep close track of which valve is which. Here's my way that keeps me from getting confused:
Identify the position of the #1 cylinder on the distributor cap and mark it on the distributor body.
Remove cap and rotate engine so the timing mark on the balance pulley is at 0 and the business end of the distributor rotor points to the #1 position you have marked. Now you have #1 at TDC on the firing stroke and both valves closed. Adjust both valves on #1.
Put a paint mark on the pulley 180 degrees away from the timing notch.
Rotate the crankshaft 180D so the paint mark is at 0 on the timing scale. Rotation is easier with spark plugs removed.
See which cylinder's plug wire the rotor now points to in the distributor. Adjust both valves on that cylinder. Note that it does not matter which way the engine was rotated or what cylinder number you are now at.
Rotate the engine 180 in the same direction as before, to bring the timing notch on the pulley back to the 0 mark on the timing scale. Adjust valves on the cylinder indicated by the distributor rotor.
Rotate 180 yet once more to get your paint mark back to 0 on the timing scale. Adjust the last set of valves and you're done.
Exhaust valves are next to each other at the center of each head. Intake valves are at the ends.
posted by 208.53.8...
, Tue, 26 Apr 2005 16:13:13, Wed, 27 Apr 2005 06:07:29
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