Re: 96 transmission issues - Saab Vintage Models Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: 96 transmission issues
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Posted by spiv (more from spiv) on Mon, 11 Nov 2002 00:43:03 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 96 transmission issues, paul [Profile/Gallery] , Sun, 10 Nov 2002 10:09:38
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If you have a lot of transaxle lube leaking onto the clutch disk, I'd think you'd have noticed slippage by now. This happened to me once on a 96 and if that's the problem it's hard to miss. OK, maybe you don't have enough goop on the clutch yet to make it slip. Still, before you go to all that trouble of yanking it out again:

1) Is your clutch freeplay setting correct?

2) I've always found it hard to check the trans fluid level visually (because the location of the level plug is hard to see.) So, drain the fluid out of the transaxle. (a) How much did you get? If it's much less than 1.8 quarts, you're losing it somewhere. (b) how does the magnetic drain plug look? Light layer of fine shavings = OK. Lots of big pieces or any recognizable hunks = trouble.

So, if the plug looks OK, try filling up with fresh Redline and checking the freeplay adjustment, and see if the problem goes away. Then keep an eye on that fluid level!

If you decide it does have to come out -- the good news is that once you've gotten the transaxle out of the car again (sigh) you don't have to take the transmission all the way apart to get at the seals. There are just three of them, and they're all in the front (bellhousing) section. You don't need to mess with the rear and top covers or the gear shafts or selector forks or any of that stuff.

You'll need to knock out the inner drive shafts (press crowbar down so it's resting against the inside face of the cast-metal part of the U-jount cup, put a wood block against case to make a fulcrum, smack other end of crowbar HARD, and inner drive shaft/U-joint will pop out forcefully and land either on your foot, fracturing several toes, or on the fender of your spouse's new Lexus.)

Once the inner drivers are out, I'd also suggest unbolting the bellhousing section from the gearbox section (just undo the kajillion bolts that hold them together.) This means less weight to lug around, and also lets you get at the seals from the inside as well as outside. Once you've got it disassembled to this point, any generic transmission shop should be able to replace the seals -- but having gotten this far you could just as well do it yourself.

Having replaced the seals, you just bolt the two pieces of the transaxle back together and shove the inner drivers back into place (just give them a moderate smack and they snap into position.)

PS -- When you say your car 'doesn't have freewheel,' do you mean that you have it but don't use it? Or that it's been surgically removed? Or that it's there but it's been busted for ages and doesn't work? If you chose the third answer, it could be the freewheel that's causing your problem instead of the clutch. Sometimes the freewheel locks up and you think it's fused for eternity so you just stop worrying about it and get used to driving without it -- but then as the bits wear down it starts to slip & judder. Transaxle still needs to come out, but don't overlook this as a potential source of your problem...

posted by 68.13.138...


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