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Retorqued my headbolts (long) Posted by ryan [Email] (#2222) [Profile/Gallery] (more from ryan) on Sat, 10 Oct 2009 14:15:13 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I just got around to retorquing my head bolts, car is a 2002 Viggen. I knew going into it that the 2002 MY is far less prone to loose head bolts, but I have heard that it can nonetheless happen, and I just think of it as cheap insurance against a $$$ head gasket repair. I bought the OEM bolts, gasket set, distributor plug, and some PCV-related items. The valve cover came off with the rubber malet, but be prepared to whack on it for a while, it doesn't come off with just a few blows. None of the bolts were what I would call loose, though the corner bolts were the least tight (though they still took a good amount of force to break free). I noticed all of the bolts were dry, except the 7 and 8 bolts (far left) which were oil soaked. I had my new bolts soaking in motor oil, and before putting them in, I would wipe down only the threads with a cloth, leaving the seating surfaces oil soaked. I did this because some of the block threads had oil and I couldn't clean them, so I thought all the bolts should have a little lubrication on their threads. This would provide more clamping force, but I figured since it's a high compression and high boost engine and the 'new' bolts have relatively low torque specs, that this would be a good idea. I torqued to 30 ft-lbs as I replaced each, then 44 ft-lbs all together (again in the correct order). I rigged up a degree wheel to know that I would be right on 90º each time. Here's where I deviated from what is said to be done; I had my torque wrench set kind of high (which just happened to be 120 ft-lbs) so as to allow an uninterrupted 90º pull. At 45º it was clicking. This is just below what GS recommends for their far superior ARP studs, and I realized that an extra 45º would just be crazy IMO. I decided to stick to 45º for all of the bolts. Of particular note is that maybe 3 or 4 of the bolts would go very smoothly through the 45º, while all the rest would only go in large increments (I would apply A LOT of force and then it would give maybe 10º at a time). Ended up reusing all my fittings and gaskets and everything is bone dry, and the car seems fine. Fingers crossed, I didn't like the inconsistencies in the way the bolts tightened.... Anyway thought this could be a good FYI for people out there, esp. 2002 MY owners who are on the fence like I was for a while. I'm still not sure if I would do it over again if I had the chance though!
posted by 24.16.51...
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