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This describes the problems in using the new bolt and shield hardware supplied with the lower plastic idler wheel. You do not want to use the new bolt. You need to use the original bolt and washer. If you want to use the stamped shield, then you need to grind the original washer to remove an interference. The interference is small, and could easily overlooked, which could lead to less than adequate bolted joint.
It took only a few minutes to pull the air box and remove the two plastic idler wheels. Replacing the one on the slack adjuster was trivial, nothing to say about that.
I did use the new hardware. The new torx bolt has a head which is extremely difficult to place, hold and turn. And I don't have big hands. There is no lead-in to the threads at the end of the bolt. The thread clearance is very small, so it is a very snug thread fit. This was probably done to be a more secure joint as it is threading into an aluminum casting. The length of thread engagement is also reasonably deep.
So this bolt needs to be indexed to just the right position, then you have to try to turn it. It is difficult just holding it there. It took about 40 minutes to get the threads to start to engage. Until it engages, there is really no way of even knowing if you have the end of the bolt over the tapped hole. The shield washer does not in any way center the bolt, so it is very difficult. And while you are doing this, the bearing is wanting to slip off of its mounting boss, and the shield is flopping around and does not want to stay on the idler. I eventually fixed the shield to the bearing with a very small amount of adhesive, being very careful that none could get onto the bearing's shield or into that seal interface.
No one should have to go through that crap. The original bolt and washer will work fine, and are much easier to manipulate and get started. And a 13mm box wrench works VERY well.
With the torx bolt threaded into position by hand, there is less than one inch of room for a torx tool that one has to manufacture. And the maximun depth of the tool that you use has to be less than this to allow the tool to be located then dropped into the torx recess. This is absolute crap.
If you are doing this job, with either fastener, don't even think of starting without a teliscopic magnetic pickup tool. You will need it.
You should not use the original hex bolt and washer with the new shield, as the old washer will sit on the radius of the recess in the shield. I would suggest filing or grinding the original washer to radius off one outer edge so the bolted joint will bear on the washer face, not on the shields corner radius in the recess. Perhaps you can find smaller washers. In theory, you should have a washer or washer stack that is thinner by thickness of the new stamped shield. Don't get too thin, or the bolt might bottom out in its tapped hole and not create the required clamping forces.
If you modify the original washer to work with the new shield, then this will guide the bolt and make it easier to find center to get things started. The problem with the new hardware, is that the shield does nothing to center the bolt as you try to get the threads engaged.
Also, the original idler wheel had a domed surface. The new one is a true cylinder shape.
, Mon, 14 Jan 2002 17:13:17
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