Water pump removal and replacement (R&R)
Also discusses coolant flush and thermostat.
Difficulty rating: Three beers
drs_install <-- search keyword
Subject vehicle: 1995 SE Turbo, 130000 miles
Problem: Small amount of coolant on the garage floor every night, from under the oil filter.
Special tools. #40 torx bit for a 3/8" socket and a #30 torx. I used a #30 x 1/4" hex bit with a 1/4" hex socket. You will need a extendable magnetic pick up tool!!! Wet/dry shop vac can be useful. Silcone grease, white lithium grease, small oiler.
Dianostics: Used a flash light and traced wetness and stains. Coolant appears to be running down from where the pump fits into the block. Hanyes shows an adapter the fits into both the block and water pump with o-rings. Suspected that they were hardened and were leaking because of thermal expansion motion. Brad at parts desk confirmed my suspicions.
The shop labor to R&R the pump is around $200US plus tax. If I was having the shop do the work, I would consider a new pump which is around $100.
To replace the pump, the air box, air duct and power steering pump need to be moved out of the way.
1) Remove the air box, no need to open it, 3 10mm hex bolts. A 1" extension on your 1/4" drive will be handy for the rearmost nut. The hose clamps are mostly all 7mm, but 9/32" works well too. Remove the rubber duct. Put a wad of paper towel into the turbo inlet and cover with a tin can.
2) You may need to remove the hard pipe which carries air to the throttle body. It has two 10mm hex bolts which are to a bracket on the head. They are underneath. Cover or fill the turbo pipes. Remove the bypass valve return hose. At the left it pulls out of the rubber duct. One hose clamp at the BPV. If the vac line at the BPV does not want to come off, remove the BPV and leave it on top of the engine with its vac line.
3) Remove one 10mm hex bolt that holds the power steering return hard pipe to above the rad.
4) Use a 1/2 sqare steel shaft to pull back and LOCK the accessory drive belt tensioner. If you do not have a manual with a diagram, sketch the belt routing!!!
4) Remove one long 13mm hex bolt+washer from the inboard side of the PS pump. Another medium length one+plus washer on the outboard side accessed via an opening in the pully. Now cover the rad shroud with a heavy cloth, and work the pump free and flop it back ontop of the rad shroud.
5) Remove the PS pump bracket, 3 x 13mm bolts and washers.
6) I left the hard pipes in place and was not able to remove the pump but was able to position it to allow removal of the adapter to renew the o-rings. If you are going to remove the pump you will need remove the #30 torx screw on the corner of the engine near the battery. You may also need to unbolt the lower hard pipe at the thermostat cover with 2 #30 torx.
7) Drain the coolant. You can attempt variations on this, or just remove the lower rad hose and have most of the coolant running on the floor. Open the expanstion tank and syphon out the liquid. Now run a tube down through it and its connected lower hose and draw fluid out of that. Or remove the hose from the bottom of the tank and swing it down over a container. With enough removed, remove the top rad hose at the rad. There should be little or no fluid loss. Now run a hose down into the rad side tank and syphon into a container. If you jack up the right hand side after the first syphon attempt you can get some more and reduce spillage when you remove the lower rad hose.
7) Remove the small 180 degree hose to the lower coolant pipe with two hose clamps. Remove the 10mm bolt that clamps both heater hard pipes to the pump.
8) Remove 3 #40 torx screws that mount the water pump to the block.
9) Work the pump back from the block AND off of the o-ring'd upper heater hard pipe.
10) Replacement is the reverse etc. The old hose clamps can be in rough shape. I put some oil into the sliding joints etc.
If the pump adaper will not come out of the block, the a small vise grips can be used which can reach past the o-ring seating detail and safely grip the adapter without damage. It will then come out very easily. Note it has an orienting tap. This tab must point inboard when refitting.
I cleaner out deposits from around the o-ring interface in the block. I put a trace of white lithium grease on the block (iron), and fitted the 3 new o-rings with silicon grease. I put antisieze or grease on the bolts and screws as I refitted things to make future work easier.
If you are wanting to flush the cooling system I suggest this. Remove the heater hoses. This is where the turbo hard pipe needs to be removed. With the lower rad hose removed, or the water pump as well, direct water into the head where the large OD hose was removed. This will flush out via the pump or lower hose. Direct water into the large hose to clean out the heater core. I have ACC and there did not seem to be any flow impendiment from a valve to worry about. Run water through the rad via the upper opening. After things drain out for a bit use a wet/dry shop vac on the lower rad fitting, pump or block opening, opening at the head and the heater hoses. This will remove most of the water left in the system!
The coolant capacity is just over 8 liters. So a gallon of antifreeze will do nicely. I used Saab antifreeze at $8.00 US. I used distilled water.
Consider replacing the thermostat if it is ancient. My original stat was 89C. Check the rating of the one that you get at the parts counter. The heater hoses are the mose trouble prone. $40 US to replace the two as a set. Consider getting new ger clamps if you are using the old heater hoses and have removed them. Thermo stat has 2 #30 torx screws to mount a hard pipe onto the thermostat cover and the cover it self is removed with 2 12mm hex bolts. If you remove the stat cover and stat I strongly suggest that you have a new stat and rubber seal ring or a new seal ring. The old ring will probably be too stiff to make a conformal leak tight seal.
Consider replacing the drive belt as you will be into it anyways and will probably need to remove the access cover in the wheel well to refit it. 7 and 10 mm hex bolts...
Try to clean locations where the hoses fit that have deposits. Amber plastic looking deposits are from coolant seepage and are often found on on the smaller hoses where the rigid section of the gear mechanism will not conform to the hose diameter. So these factory clamps do a poor job on even when things are new! Smaller gear clamps will work better on these smaller hoses. Even large heater hose diameter at the head was a mess. Such problems occur where coolant reacts with the atmoshpere. These deposits can be scraped off. But remember that a smooth surface is required when you are done.
The aluminum in the pump and adapter were clean and bright. There was no sign of sediment or scale when the system was drained, flushed and vac'd. Never seen things look so good before. The coolant was over 3 years old.
Do not put a lubricant between the hoses and the fittings. There will not be enough friction and the force of the clamp will cause the hose to extrude out from under the clamp instead of the hose staying put and taking up a load. I learned that the hard way years ago.
Remember that the coolant is sweet and toxic! Kids and pets are attracted to this stuff and a little bit can cause permanent kidney dammage or total loss. Bugs are attracted to the sweet smell and if you are going to use the coolant again take note of the bugs.
posted by 207.43.19...
Posts in this Thread:
- Water pump removal and replacement (R&R), Dean, Mon, 22 Oct 2001 17:39:23 <-- Viewing This Message
- Re: Water pump removal and replacement (R&R), Jesse Peek, Wed, 8 Apr 2009 10:01:03
- great info! thanks nm, MJM , Mon, 22 Oct 2001 22:21:31
- Excelent post, as usual. How long did the job take. n/m, Joe , Mon, 22 Oct 2001 22:07:35
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