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Tools: trolly jack suggested, breaker bar, 3/4" or 19mm socket (six point suggested), various small tools, two feet of 3/16" or 1/4" OD vinyl clear tubing. Torque wrench.
You will need DOT brake fluid. If you are going a 4 coner bleed, you will need a 1 liter bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid. For this job, a small bottle will be more than enough.
I strongly suggest never sieze. The bake bits are exposed to water salt and dirt.
This work is quite easy. I rate the degree of difficulty 1 & 1/2 beers.
1) Jack up the rear or corner of the vehicle part way.
2) Remove hub cover is your wheels are so equiped and loosen the wheel bolts.
3) Jack to get the tire off the the ground and remove the bolts and set them and the wheel to one side.
4) If you are going to replace the rotor as well, you will need to remove the #30 torx screw from the brake rotor face. You can leave the parking brake on for now, but later you will have to release the parking brake to get the rotor off. If you are using the tire changing jack instead of a trolly jack be sure to chock the front wheels to avoid vehicle rolling off of the tire changing jack. -DANGER-
5) With a 19mm or 3/4" socket, 6 point suggested, loosen the caliper mounting bolts with a long breaker bar. As you are not bleeding this caliper, but removing it, you do not need to remove or loosen the bleed bolt.
6) Loosen the brake pipe flare nut with a 10mm flare wrench. This could be your earlier step as it is a show stopper if it will not move. You need to be sure that the nut is not bound to the brake pipe because if you have the nut twist the steel brake line, it will be destroyed and you will need to replace it. So you would need to have a replacement pipe on hand or abandon the DIY and take the job to the dealer. This is why I run oil or penetrating rust preventative into the brake line flare nut interface when I get a new vehicle.
7) Drive out the pad retaining pins from the caliper body and remove the pins, hold down spring, pads and any shims. If you are reusing the pads, postion them so you will be able to put them back in the same sides later.
8) Place a drip tran under the caliper. Don't use plastic kitchen ware. Glass or ceramic would be safe from contamination after washing up.
9) Reach back and pull the brake up out of its plasting retaining clip on the axle fabrication.
9) Remove the flare nut and postion the brake line and nut a bit inboard of the caliper where it will drip to the pan without getting fluid ontop the caliper body.
10) Remove the caliper bolts and remove the caliper.
11) If you are going to replace the rotor, or remove for parking brake P.M., release the parking brake now, noting safety concerns from step 4.
12) Clean the brake pipe and flare nut by sliding and rotating to release rust and dirt and continue with wiping until it is clean and dry. The pipe will continue to drip. The nut will remain 'up' if you move it there into the bend. Now put never sieze on the nut thread and the pipe below the nut while avoiding the dripping pipe flare. Now work the nut down to distribute the never sieze into the nut/piep interface, adding more if require and then leave the nut at the top. You need to not have and of the never sieze getting into the fluid side of the system!
13) Mount the caliper and firm up the Bolts. You better have the rotor back on! Did you have problems with these bolts been rusted and hard to remove? I put never sieze on the threads to keep the water and salt out.
14) Place the pipe into the caliper and press it down as you thread the flare nut home. If you are good with the timing of the drips there will be no fluid on the caliper or the threads. You can tighen it down fully now. Do not over tighen it. Use some feel and common sense. You cannot get a torque wrench on these things. Remember that you want to be able to remove it again some day. Don't forget to snap the brake pipe back into its plastic clip.
15) Remove the bleeder bolt. Does it have never sieze on it already, enough to get all of the threads? Put no more anti sieze if needed and run it in. Don't put it on the very tip that acts as the valve plug. Now prepare to bleed the brake. The rebuilt calipers have smaller bleed valves than the OEM caliper. So you may need a 1/4" wrench for the bleeding operation. If it is 7mm, you will be better off with tiny vice grips on the bleeder bolt for the bleed operation of opening and closing the valve. Put on the tubing and place the other end in the drip tray. Put a board or something behind the brake petal to limit how much it is stoked during the bleed. Master cylinders of age can have deposits or rust at the extremes of travel which will ruin the cup seals. So pushing the petal to the floor in a bleeding operation is very unwise! Now do the two man bleed operation. I will not describe this operation. Do be sure not to get the reservoir empty! Brake fluid will wash off with plain water. It will harm paint and many other materials so don't spill.
16) After energentic bleeding strokes stop producing any trace of air in the bleed fluid. When part way, leave the bleeder shut and pump the brake petal hard to seat the pistons, then bleed some more. This can free up more air to bleed out.
17) Remove the bleeder tubing and tighten the bleeder bold. Again, don't over do it. Wick out brake fluid from inside the bleeder with some twisted paper towel. Spray some penetrating wax like rust preventative into the bleeder body. LPS #3 suggested. Put the cap onto the bleeder bolt. Before you start the job, have a known socket or tool that will work on the bleeder bolt. Again,sizes do vary.
18) Replace the #30 torx screw if you removed it.
19) Torque the brake caliper bolts to 95ft-lb, or 80 N.M.. This feels too soft to me. I torque these to 65 ft-lb.
20) Put the brake pad [and shims] into the caliper, place the hodl down spring and insert the pins and drive them home. I suggest never seize on the pad backing plate top and bottom edges to prevent these from becoming rust bound in the slots. I also put never sieze om the pins and hold down springs as these can rust very badly. Also apply never sieze to the flare nut all over and up around the pipe a bit as well. Do the same at the bleed bolt to caliper interface.
21) Replace the road wheel and firm up the bolts, lower to the ground or until tire contact and torque to 74 ft-lb steel or 86 alloys. Apply the hub cover.
22) Check the brake fluid one last time and remove the board from under the brake petal!!
23) Always pump the brakes to seat the pads before driving off when pads have been removed or replaced!
All of this work will take perhaps less than one hour is you have your tools collected and there are no problems with siezed bolts or flare nut issues. My work took less time than writting this.
posted by 209.172.20...
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