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The correct head bolt tightening procedure is listed on the Taliaferro site and involves tightening the bolts to a specific torque then adding 90 degrees of additional tightening. This usually means the bolts are tightened to a near plastic deformation and should not be re-used, but you can check your existing bolts before buying new ones.
If I remember correctly, the bolts are tightened in steps to 60 ft-lbs prior to adding the 90-degree turning. Owners of cars where the bolts were loose from the factory found much less than 60 ft-lbs on these bolts.
I would buy a new valve cover gasket set (buy the Saab OEM part as I had bad experience with the lowest cost alternative), remove the valve cover, and with your troque wrench set at 60 ft-lbs give each bolt a twist. If any bolt moves, then close up your engine and order a set of bolts.
Not all engines had loose bolts, mine didn't. And those that did usually had bolts only torqued to 30 ft-lbs or so.
The other, and maybe wiser, method is to just spend the $50 or so for a set of new factory bolts and change them out. The $50 isn't much to spend compared to $6,000 or more for a used replacement engine.
posted by 198.208.25...
_______________________________________
Saabs owned:
2008 9-5 Aero Sedan, sold at 227K miles
2006 9-3SC 2.0T - Wife's daily driver
2000 Viggen Convertible - Sold May, 2022
1964 Quantum IV Formula Car - Retirement project
2000 9-5lpt Sedan, sold at 318K miles
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