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1999 9-5 2.3lpt with > 169,000 miles; I would like to drive the car at least another 100K miles if we can. The one thing I knew for certain needed replacement was the belt, and everything followed from that. This is part one of two, the suspension will be part two of two. Thanks to others there's a lot of information already on the site for doing these procedures, but I wanted to share why you should, and add some info on a few small points.
What - serp (short) belt, tensioner, idler pulley; RH engine mount; all new hoses including McKay euro heater hoses to lose the coolant bypass valve; T-stat; Water pump. Why - I have had the car 2 years from 126K, and forty thousand later I figured things were due. Time - took me about fouteen hours for everything, but I'm slow and picky about getting everything cleaned up so I don't have to go back in (it worked - no leaks; belt runs true w. no squeal).
Things I Found: RH Engine mount was toast as expected. WP pulley still spun smoothly and no leak, but had subtle side movement - once apart the evidence was that it would have been leaking soon (all o-rings like rock). Tensioner and idler pulleys still had good bearings . . . but the tensioner pivot had worn and allowed the tensioner arm to scrape against the block just a little (probably original part, close call). I can see why replacing idler with the belt is a good idea, and carefully checking tensioner and its pulley is a must.
Tips for Others: It would have been nice if WIS had shown the banjo bolt fastening the Turbo coolant line to the water pump - and WP kit advice could tell the unwary like me to but new copper o-rings. I had no spares, so I reused the old ones (should have seen it coming). If you are working with the quick hose clamps, buy the remote hose clamp pliers. They don't work for some of the angles, but most of those are the ones where a vise grip or pliers will work. The HOSES were the toughest part of the job - especially the lower radiator hose. I put it back on with airplane screw clamps, because I couldn't get the quick clamps over the new thicker hose. Removing the coolant bypass valve and hoses was rewarding, because I didn't want to have that valve stranding us some day. Removing the old heater hose clamps and hoses was tough, but access was improved with the battery out to give access to the reservoir hose. This also made the T-stat really easy!
My next project is front and rear struts with front and rear bushings. I will be assembling my own bushing tools. Any advice on whether I should use strut lifts (shims) to raise rear ride height if it is only 1/8" below spec with the old struts ? Will new Bilsteins be enough ?
Thanks,
Mark in Marine (MN)
posted by 74.46.228...
, Tue, 10 May 2011 07:59:50
, Tue, 10 May 2011 02:56:05
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