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, Fri, 8 Feb 2013 21:03:35
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The rears are the ones that tend to fail, and the bounce test or sign of leaks didn't work for me, I just felt something was not quite right with the ride on a highway with ridges. Removed the rear shocks, and one was very stiff on rebound and had obviously failed. If you are on a budget, just do the rears with oem sachs units, the fronts are no doubt worn but I understand do not outright fail as a normal outcome. The rears are also pretty easy to do. I ended up with Koni fsd's all around (new OEM springs too and the shock bushings, strut mounts, etc.), they are a quality product and strike an excellent ride and handling balance, like OEM perhaps with a slight bit more damping. The real issue for your mileage is probably some bushing wear. The big rear trailing arm ones are probably shot. If you don't do worn bushings, the shocks won't restore you to a like new outcome on their own. I would do the rear trailing arms and the two rear bushings on the front subframe, these tend to wear the most. Swaybar bushings and drop links too. Also do the left engine/transmission mount which is also the first to go, and easy to replace, and the subtle vibration at idle almost goes away.. With the bushings, mount and fsd's, the car will feel much tighter, and worth it for sure if you keep the car for even a couple more years. I did most work myself, but should not cost too much for a shop, the items I note are all straightforward procedures. Some suggest redoing all front and rear subframe bushings, can't argue with that but the difficulty and cost goes way up beyond the items I noted, and may be overkill, its hard to identify which of these bushings is worn unless its extreme, maybe just have a good inspection of the bushings as best as one can.
posted by 76.70.116...
, Fri, 8 Feb 2013 21:03:35
, Sun, 10 Feb 2013 15:50:30, Sat, 9 Feb 2013 20:44:25, Fri, 8 Feb 2013 21:11:27
, Sat, 9 Feb 2013 05:57:43
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