1999-2009 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Main 95 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Cooling System Overhaul Notes. Posted by Doug W [Email] (#2371) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Doug W) on Mon, 27 May 2013 22:40:00 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
This was a much more difficult job than I thought! There is an 8 mm sheet metal screw at the bottom of the fan shroud that retains the transmission lines. The WIS only mentions it in passing. It's very difficult to get to and is hidden behind an AC line at the bottom front cross-member. This fastener MUST come out to free the fans from the car.
The radiator comes out easily if you remove the battery and battery tray as you can move it far to the drivers side of the car for easier access.
Those stupid spring clips on the coolant hoses are for most part useless. I replaced at least two with band clamps as found on the turbo plumbing. The issue is a vice grip can't close far enough on them to allow clearance over the nipple. The coolant pump and thermostat hoses were especially vexing. Those "remote" pliers are nearly useless as you need the hands of godzilla to close them far enough to work!
The thermostat screws are completely blind. I used a SMALL 3/8 Snap-On ratchet for removal and installation. The two that hold the housing on are 13 mm hex M8 and the two that retain a bracket and a ground are 10 or 11 mm M6 or so.
When installing the radiator it's imperative for the transmission lines to be aft of the radiator and inboard of the lower radiator hose. Don't affix the upper transmission line until after installing the fans.
Remove the turbo inlet line between the AMU and turbo inlet casting to allow better lines of sight and light to see the lower radiator hose.
Everyone seems to make a huge deal of the petcock at the bottom of the radiator. Piece of cake. Raise the car, remove the driver's front wheel and access the petcock with an 18" extension, ratchet, and petcock socket from the wheel well. It's a half turn counterclockwise to open. The OEM radiators drain through the lower left radiator support pin. They'll drain the entire system. The Nissens replacements use a plug, not a petcock so it'll be a little messier next time but the plug removal procedure is the same with the extensions and petcock socket.
Don't forget to re-affix the radiator upper return line to tank with clips or tie wraps at the top of the fan shroud.
The outcome was great. No more leaking radiator, new radiator hoses, t-stat, and temp sensor. There was a side benefit, I found a broken vacuum line off the throttle body. I thought the car had lost it's MOJO. A new vacuum line and now it's its old self again!
Six hours of spannering - builds character!
posted by 75.38.240...
_______________________________________ '03 Aero 5Spd, Krona, 290 bhp (son's) Sold: '04 Aero Sport Kombi, Sport Tek, BSR '03 Linear 5 spd. Krona Mods, 350 bhp
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.