Re: OK - got it figured out now - Saab 9-5 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Re: OK - got it figured out now
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Posted by RodM (more from RodM) on Tue, 20 May 2014 09:52:08 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: OK - got it figured out now, allissaab [Profile/Gallery] , Tue, 20 May 2014 06:12:49
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The procedure is pretty straightforward, but there were some frustrations.

First was that I figured I would replace the swaybar bushings while I had easy access to them (likewise the control arm bushings and motor mounts). Well, I managed to snap off 3 of the 4 swaybar bushing bolts, and had to spend several hours with a MIG welder (after giving up trying the drilling route) to get those out.

Second, I thought inserting the new subframe bushings would be a piece of cake with my Harbor Freight 12 ton press, but even with that, it wasn't that easy. I had to remove the control arms to get good access, then the thing is still pretty heavy (if I was doing it again I might fabricate up a table to support the subframe on while pushing the old bushings out and the new ones in). I did eventually figure out a methodology that worked well - center the press as well as possible, then, as you are applying pressure, push the bushing in around the edges with a punch or similar non-pointy object.

Third, as I mentioned above, I hadn't realized that the bottom of the engine swings back quite a ways and it was interfering with the subframe reinstallation. All I did was to get a prybar to move it forward, then jammed a piece of wood between the firewall and rear motor mount mounting point on the engine to keep it in position. Then it went in very easily - it just took me way too long to figure out what the problem was (I was originally thinking it was catching on the steering rack)

If I was doing it again, I would be a lot quicker, although it's still quite an involved task.

Oh, and the 3 balljoint bolts are a real pain to get in. In the end I removed the two large bolts holding the struts to the steering knuckle for easier access.

You'll need an 18mm socket/wrench for a lot of the nuts (just a waring suince these don't come in standard tool kits). Also an E-20 external torx socket if you want to remove the control arms or replace the bushings. A 10mm ratcheting wrench s very useful for the rear motor mount.

On the plus side, the exhaust studs came out very easily!

Rod

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