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Considering that I live in an area that isn't really
flat (Swiss alps) here are a few dos and don'ts on
how to treat you brakes during mountain driving
and for every day use.
1. Driving downhill:
DO NOT keep you foot for long periods of time on
the brakes (more then 10 seconds) , you will heat them
up to the point where the brake liquid will boil and form
bubbles which can effectively disable your brakes.
Rather shift down and let the engine rev a bit and use short but
stronger brake inputs. Brake harder before the turns,
not into the turns as your car will steer a lot better
when you're not braking (abs or not). Don't race downhill
on roads that are steep and that already require frequent
braking due to hairpins.
2. Driving every day:
While on a stick shift it is nice to shift down to reduce the speed
you should rather brake more and shift down in such a way that
your brakes do the braking and not the expensive clutch. If need
be when you shift down, throttle up a bit, while you're not braking,
then brake. You clutch will last longer.
3. Aggressive driving (to hell with that clutch):
Last moment braking... Shift down at higher speeds that
are still acceptable as for engine RPM, lift the clutch so
that the lower rpms of the engine add to the front brakes
as braking force, don't jump of the clutch but modulate
what you do. Don't do this for too long as you could
overheat the clutch. This will wear the clutch quite
fast if you do it every day.
4. Going downhill emergency during brake failure:
a- Manual, 1st shift down and modulate clutch as to brake,
also start pulling hand brake, bit by bit as to add to the
engine braking momentum. Only use hand brake when you have
already slowed down or when you really have to. If possible
to steer and shift with engine off, shut engine down. Release hand brake
should you have to turn. If you're still too fast, consider
using the hillside rocks... slides, whatever to rub
off you speed destroying one car side. It will be noisy and
hurt the car but will save your butt. Touch hillside
in a smooth way, not at an angle.
b- Auto. Shift down into lower gear range, if possible to steer
shut engine down. Use hand brake to slow you down once you
are quite slow already, or if there is a need. Again don't
pull hand brake all the way, but rather notch by notch.
No help, see above for rubbing off your speed.
p.s I you shut down your engine... your steering and regular
brakes will get heavy, be prepared for this. Also
if you can try pumping the brakes all the way, sometimes
they still brake a little after a couple of pumps.
I have had one total brake failure on a Mitsu. Eclipse Turbo 4x4
going downhill on a road, I overestimated the jap brakes
as there were no hairpins... Used lower gear, shutdown and hand brake to
reduce my speed to around 20mph, then I did my best to keep
this speed all the way down as I could not come to a full stop.
Result was all discs were warped, bubbles etc in brake
system, all done under warranty. (I am still */ç/ç( at Mitsu
way of building a sports coupe)
Regards,
Coolknight
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