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Well obviously it's not possible to make a perfect diagnosis over the internet, but here's a few comments:
1) Do you trust this guy? Obviously he's not trying to cut you a break, sounds like he's quoting list or higher prices on everything.
2) While it's possible, ECU failures are pretty rare, except in extreme cases like reversed cables when trying to jumpstart. This means two things. The obvious: it's unlikely the ECU is bad (but possible). The less obvious: there are a lot of good ones in junkyards. If the ECU *does* need replacement, get a used one.
3) This may sound odd, but the engine will actually run okay with the AMM disconnected. Not perfectly, but enough so the car is semi-drivable. Try disconnecting the AMM - if it runs better, you've found your culprit! Note: I wouldn't recommend driving the car a long distance with the AMM disconnected - the incorrect fuel mixture could trash the catalytic converter. But you might be able to drive it to a better mechanic! Also, rebuilt AMM's are available at a substantial cost savings over new. If you're the gambling type, you could also try a used one.
4) APC box should have nothing to do with this - the worst that can happen is greatly reduced boost.
5) The "ignition module" (a/k/a "coil driver", "output module", & about 20 other things) could also cause problems like this, especially if it gets worse with increasing temperature. I had one like this, kept the car going for about 300 miles until I got to a dealer by putting a bag of ice on it! Might be worth looking into if the AMM checks out ok.
Eric Law
posted by 206.96.16...
, Tue, 14 May 2002 16:33:01
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