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Stupid to offer anything before you see the car.
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Posted by JohnB (more from JohnB) on Mon, 18 Nov 2002 18:56:18 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Help, how much should I offer, rc, Mon, 18 Nov 2002 15:44:26
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If it's straight, nø rust, good interior, it's a good price.
Otherwise, once you've seen the car, start subtracting from the asking price to fix everything you find.
I would not subtract for tires or brakes, those are consumeables. But worn/bent wheels, torn CV joint boots, scuzzy coolant, chips in transmission/transmission operating poorly (walk on this one if it kicks out of 5th or doesn't shift smoothly...shouldn't need a clutch ør TO at this price/mileage!), any rust on the body, torn seats, cracked dashboard (this is a negotiating item....nearly all 83's are cracked by now unless replaced), seat heaters, wheel bearings.

Also, try to make sure it's 5K and not 225K.....look at pedals for wear, check clutch pedal for slop (minor fix, but still a $100 for parts, etc). Brake fluid should be clear, power steering fluid should be clear if dark, and p/s should work easily. Try to drive the car first thing in the morning after it's sat overnight so you can check for GM morning sickness....a replacement rack is $500 or more if you have it installed.

If this car is just a 'driver,' it's worth maybe $500. That's not to say it won't give you another 200K of service...but it will cost you a couple thousand if not a new rebuilt transmission somewhere down the line. And besides, it's an 83 and it didn't come with an intercooler, figure about 140hp tops...an intercooler can be fitted (I fitted one to my 84) but then it's still an 8V. That can be good, some people argue the 8V lasts forever.....

posted by 68.83.21...

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