1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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Well, i think i'm done and following up for anyone that has a similar problem or for anyone that had followed my story of 'notchy' shifting.
I had the elongated hole in the clutch pedal so i had the hole drilled out and put in an Oilite bushing. Took the car for a test drive and it was better, but not great... still somewhat notchy:( I pressed down on the clutch pedal with my hand and there was still a bit of movement before encountering resistance so i disassembled once again and saw that the holes in the clutch master yoke (fork) were also elongated. Not knowing how to bleed the clutch system (which i'm a little afraid to do on my own given the bicycle tube contraptions i read about getting built to do the job) which would be required to replace the master or the fork itself i began to think...
I decided without much expense i could try to attach new pieces of steel to the existing sides of the clutch master fork with a properly drilled hole in it before attaching.
I thought it would be easy to have a metal shop cut me two pieces of steel with the proper size and a hole drilled out of each one and i'd just have attach them... but there is no money in this for the shop and therefore i couldn't find anybody to do the work. Went to Home Depot and found a 3ft. piece of steel, 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick which was perfect. I cut the pieces myself with a hacksaw and then drilled holes into each.
I won't get into the many wrong ways i attempted to attach the steel pieces to the yoke, but the right way to do it is using JB Weld and one piece at a time (i can't stress this last part enough... do one piece at a time!) Attach one side making sure the hole is where you want it and then use a C-Clamp to hold it in place (making sure that when you tighten the C-clamp the piece doesn't shift). Let is set for a day or two, then repeat the process on the other side, checking to make sure the pin slides freely thru both holes to ensure they're lined up properly.
Once everything is dry re-attach the pedal to the master and give the pedal a few presses to make sure that the steel pieces remain attached. You'll also need a new (longer) clevis pin since the existing pin won't be long enough to compensate for the added width of the two steel pieces.
Take the car for a test drive.
I haven't claimed victory just yet because i didn't take for a long ride, only up and down the ramps of my public parking garage... but so far all seems well and the notchiness of the shifting has been eliminated.
I have received tremendous help and support from this board (not just on this job), so i'll be happy to answer any questions anyone has regarding the process.
If anyone in the NJ area is soon to bleed their clutch or brakes please email me thru my name above so i can watch, help, and learn the process.
posted by 68.193.225...
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