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SteveL, anti-seize paste is what you need (long) >
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Posted by Micah in NC [Email] (more from Micah in NC) on Mon, 5 Apr 2004 09:40:05 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: what do you lube Spark Plugs with?, steveL, Mon, 5 Apr 2004 09:05:48
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Steve,

Hi there. I wouldn't use WD-40 for plug lube; it's too runny.

When I change my spark plugs, I pick up a little packet (like 89 cents) of anti-seize--graphite paste--to lube the plugs with. You just smear a tiny dab on the threads of the plugs before you screw them in. Be sure NOT to get any anti-seize on the plug's electrodes--it could cause misfiring. Anti-seize is sold on the checkout counter here at the local Advance Auto Parts store and also at AutoZone shops here in N. Carolina.

Also sold on those checkout counter displays is "spark plug boot lube," which is di-electric grease. This goes on the OUTSIDE of the plug, or interior of spark plug boot, and is intended to make the boots easier to remove. It is NOT interchangeable with anti-seize. DON'T put plug boot lube on the plug threads; it will probably just melt away and make the plugs harder to remove.

On the plug gap issue, perhaps I'm paranoid but I don't always trust the "they gapped 'em at the factory" line. I check mine with a spark plug gapping guage, which is very cheap. Some gapping tools incorporate several little feeler guages, each of a specific thickness; other gapping tools look like a circular piece of metal (disk) about the size of a US 50-cent coin with the edge thickness increasing gradually around the circumference of the disk. Both are usually in the $2 to $5 range. To use the second type, just insert the thinnest edge of the gapping tool in between the plug's center and side electrode and turn the tool until it stops moving freely--then read the gap indicated on the tool at the location of the electrodes. (It makes sense if you see one.)

If you find the gap is too wide, just tap the spark plug side electrode on the top of your workbench or engine or something metal which won't get scratched by doing so. If gap is too small, GENTLY pry the side electrode open a tiny bit and re-measure. I usually gap my plugs at the small end of the range to account for gap widening over the life of the plug. (For example, gap for my old 900S 8-valve is 0.024 to 0.028 inches, so I gap my plugs to 0.024 inches.)

So, to answer your second question, "Can it ruin anything if gapped wrong from box?"

I will say this: too small a gap will cause smaller spark (I think that's correct) and perhaps not as efficient combustion; too large a gap can cause misfiring, especially if the spark plug wires or other components (coil, distributor cap) are on the sketchy side, because it requires more voltage to jump a larger gap and old components might deliver less voltage.

You might want to check/change the distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires, too.

I know this is long, but I hope it helps! If you need help, send me an email (link on my name above).

--Micah in NC
'84 900S, 255K mi.

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