1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Replacing your motor mounts?
Read my ‘little’ repair guide for instructions on how I tackled this job.
First of all I have the front solid rubber mount and hydraulic side mounts setup (it’s a european 16v n/a car). I don't think the replacing of solid or hydraulic mounts differ much.
Start by removing the battery cable (safety first). Then remove the wires from the
alternator. Remove the belts from the alternator/water pump and let them hanging
from the crank pulley. I am able to remove the alternator and it’s bracket without removing
the heater hoses. But that's only because I don't have aircondition I think.
Remove the tensioner through-bolt from the alternator as well as the tensioner-bolt.
Flip the alternator down and remove the 6mm allen bolts holding the bracket to the engine.
Retrieve the earth-strap from the alternator.
Flip the alternator all the way up and hold it there. I use a bit of copper installation wire
fixed through a hole in the alternator and the engine lifting point on the waterpump to
hold it there. Then loosen the lower bolt. Tilt the alternator towards the bulkhead and
remove the pivot bolt (2 16mm wrenches to loosen the nut and bolt). After you remove
the through bolt you can pull the alternator out. It's a bit of a wressle but I can manage
it without removing the heater hoses. With the alternator out remove the alternator bracket.
Time to replace those alternator bushes?
Second drain engine oil and remove the oil filter. You need more space there to work on the
motor mounts.
Raise the car and get under there. Remove the two 13mm nuts from below or through the wheel well.
Lower the car and get a jack under the differential to raise the engine slightly
(to take the weight of the mounts). Use a piece of wood to protect the tranny casing
and to spread the weight. Raise the engine slightly (about an inch).
Remove the 4 12mm bolts holding the motor mount bracket to the engine.
Take care not to damage the heads. My bolts were suprisingly easy to loosen.
I find it easier to remove the entire mount assembly instead of wressling with those
thick nuts holding the mount to the bracket with the mount in the car.
The two rear most bolts are a bit of a pain but you can get them out with a good
12mm open wrench.
If all the bolts are out you can pull the entire assembly out.
Take it to a vice and remove the big nuts holding the mount and the large through bolt.
Get your new mount and install it loosly to the brackets.
The trick to refitting is not to have all the bolts and nuts tightened yet. This way you have some play in the motor mount assembly helping on installing the 4 12mm bolts.
Now the 4 bolts holding the bracket to the engine are a pain to re-install, especially the
ones closest to the firwall. My little trick is to cut the hole in the bracket for
the lower rear bolt to a U-shape. This way you can install this bolt to the engine and
then slide the bracket-mount-assembly onto this bolt. Install the remaining 3 12mm bolts. Lower the engine slowly and check that everything falls in place.
Then tighten all the nuts and bolts. Don't forget the two 13mm nuts from below and the bracket through bolt.
This is the driver's side done. This is the thoughest one so the rest is a lot easier.
Reinstall oil filter, fill up with oil and reinstall the alternator and the belts. (don’t forget the earth strap.)
Now move to the other side.
Raise the car and get under there to remove the 2 13mm nuts.
Lower the car and loosen and remove those two big 17mm nuts as well as the middle 19 or 18 mm nut (can’t remember). Raise the engine again, about 1-1,5 inches was enough for me. I was able to wressle the motor mount and lower bracket out without having to remove the bracket that hold the mount to the engine. It’s a bit of a puzzle to twist and turn it out. Maybe having to raise the engine a bit more but it can be done. Take car with the exhaust and shifter rod not to bend them when raising the engine too much.
With everything out swap the old mount for a new one and put everything back in place. This side is real easy compared to the driver’s side. I did it in less than 40mins.
Now move to the front.
Since I have a solid mount on the front I can’t give any advice on the hydraulic setup here.
First remove the skid plate from below. Its hold on with three bolts in the front and two nuts and bolts to the reinforcement cross-member.
Loosen and remove the two bolts left and right from the mount and retrieve the bushes. Get a big Torx socket (T55 I believe) and loosen the big through bolt. It is reached from the right side of the mount and is difficult to spot.
Get a jack under the transmission and raise the front of the tranny slightly (to get the weight of the front mount).
Now looses the upper bolt holding the C-shaped bracket to the transmission casing.
Raise the engine a bit more and turn the mount-bracket assembly clock wise (standing on the left side of the car). This way you can reach the lower bolt holding the C-bracket to the casing. You might want to put a bit of cartboard up against the radiator to protect it (and your knuckles!). Get everything out there and install the new one. Maybe the ‘cool’-guys have to remove the second airco-fan ?
Take notice of the mount orientation regarding the holes in the rubber part. It is flexible in one direction and stiff in the direction perpendicular on this. I made a mistake
here and had a real stiff mount vibrating the car loads at idle.
Put it back in there and start with the lower bolt holding the C-bracket. Twist the mount back into it’s position and reinstall the upper bolt. Now tighten the big through bolt. Lower the engine so the mount bracket falls in place on the crossmember bracket. You maybe have to use a big into screwdriver to convince it to fall in the slot in the bracket. Install the two 13mm bolts with the bushes.
Reinstall the skid plate and your done.
Get in for a test drive and feel the diference. My shifting really improved and the car felt like new again.
posted by 62.166.9...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.