1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
The kits I have gotten came through NAPA but were Beck/Arnley and sound like yours. To your number "1", the little plastic "cap" is a split nylon idea that snaps over the tip of the piston and holds the cup behind it on. Stick a fat screwdriver in straight up the slit and it should open enough to come off, but you could even break it off because there should be a new one in the kit. Then there is a rubber seal, set so as to push fluid to rear, towards the fluid line to slave, and backing it up is a very thin stainless or copper washer. Take this all off first but replace it last.
The old seals could be cut off but you might as well try taking them off whole as this is good practise for installing the new ones.
2. This is from memory so I might be off a bit, but as to the pedal end, I recall only one seal. (You say "seals" and I think you only mean seal.) I think they sell special brass bent-tip picks for this but you could use say a dental pick or a darning needle or any fat stiff needle so long as you don't prick or nick the new seal: Get it in the piston groove and under the seal, then stretch the seal up and out of its groove and get the entire thing up onto the piston, then slide it off.
Clean everything very well; I use isopropyl rubbing alcohol. There are some pores that need to be open to permit fluid passage one way at the rear (slave end) seal, for instance.
Lube the new seal that goes closer to pedal, either with brake assembly lube or with brake fluid, and stretch it over the piston and down to snap into its groove.
Then you can put the other seal on, with the new thin washer that fits first, then the seal, then the nylon pop-on piece, that just pushes on kind of like a "poppet" bead my old babysitter Joyce used to have in the late 1950s.
3. The kit is apparently made for a couple of different vehicle applications and the extras are for non-Saab uses I think. The extra thin washer, and the "cup" seal, with no perforation, are surplus.
4. As to the rubber dust boot: I rebuilt one of these in mid-summer 2003 and had to deal with the car again in fall 2004 and noticed already incipient cracking in the new rubber boot, whereas the boot I took off was potentially there since 1989 and had no cracking or deterioration signs.
Not that it really seals against much contamination, but if I were doing this again I'd just leave the original boot on that end if it looked alright. In your case, you can probably stretch the new boot far enough to go on or you could reinstall the original.
I maintain up and down that you never get the original grade of rubber in a rebuild kit, no matter if it's got the OE supplier's name on it, and the cracks I saw are another proof that I'm right.
You should also hone the inside of the bore in the master cylinder, and if you can't buy or rent a hone, I made one once by gluing some wet-or-dry sandpaper to a hardwood dowel using Elmer's glue (cut paper first to exact fit), then once it was dry, used it in a fashion such as to cover the whole bore. Not the same but good enough.
Clean bore and inlet tube well with say rubbing alcohol, then blow it dry and clean and reassemble.
posted by 70.16.7...
, Sat, 12 Feb 2005 13:54:47, Sat, 12 Feb 2005 13:47:20
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