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Re: removing C900 Convertible spoiler - Long
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Posted by RicD (more from RicD) on Wed, 6 Jul 2005 08:01:26 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: removing C900 Convertible spoiler, vargulv, Tue, 5 Jul 2005 11:42:27
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I'm not sure what year car you have so I'll just tell you what I know. To remove the sections from the doors: there is a screw at the rear of the door inside the lip at the top. There may also be a screw on the mirror side. Remove these and pry the part off. It is connected in the center by a screw which snaps into a fitting. It is also mounted with body-side moulding tape. You may need to spray some WD-40 in there to losten it up.
The rear sections are mounted from inside the body-side panels. You need to remove the rear seat side panels to get at the mounting nuts. I believe you have to remove the trunk liner as well. These parts are also mounted with tape. The rear spoiler is mounted with screws inside the trunk and with mounting tape. Be careful not to break the wires for the rear break light. Once you remove them you'll have to remove the mounting tape residue from the body. A heat gun and a putty knife will get most of it off.

When you remount them be sure to use the mounting tape. The rear spoiler also needs to have some urethane windshield setting compound put around the area where the brake light wire penetrates the hood. You'll see what I mean when you take it off. If you skip this step you'll have a leak for sure.

While you have the spoiler parts off spray them with swimming pool liquid algecide or house wash. Let them set for a while then pressure wash them. Once they dry, put Thompsons Water Seal on them. You may also want to enlarge the drain holes and channels which always get clogged. Leave the holes on the top alone, but where the holes penetrate the bottom side and the drain channels you can hog out so they don't get clogged so easily and leave a pond on top of your spoiler.

I'm going through the same process with my car now. It's a good idea to remove the rear lights and center section (where the licence plate goes), and the bumpers, bumper extensions, (These can be painted seperately) headlights, side window weatherstrips, mirrors, door handles and locks, wheel well trim (just pulls off), body side moulding (use heat gun) and any other part which overlaps body areas that are going to be painted. If not, these areas will be the first to fail. Also removing as much as you can will save you some money because it means less prep work for the painter. You may want to do the work at the painter's shop because the car won't be drivable without lights. Or have the painter pick the car up as I'm having done.



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