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Posted by CMyles [Email] (#1126) [Profile/Gallery] (more from CMyles) on Wed, 9 Aug 2006 20:15:33 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: I see... Haynes - it's blue one, right? (+), RS [Profile/Gallery] , Wed, 9 Aug 2006 16:30:02
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Siefried,
You need relatively few spec's to rebuild this tranny. The preload on the pinion bearings is important and must be set when they are replaced. In a pinch you can make all the other preloads on new bearings by simply re-shimming the same as originally. The nut on the front end of the main (pinion) shaft (it lays inside the fifth gear hub) is torqued to 50 + or - 10 Nm. The nut on the front end of the input shaft (lays inside the lower chainwheel) is 100 + or - 10 Nm. Also DO NOT rely upon staking those nuts to retain them. Put a few drops of red (high strength) locktite on the threads and then screw them on (then stake them). Do that on the pinion bearing nut too. If the stack height shims are damaged then measure and replace maintaining the same shim pack thickness. Same goes for the differential side bearing shims even if you replace the bearings. The secret here is that modern bearings have very consistant dimensions so if your gearbox was shimmed right in the first place it will most often be shimmed the same when new bearings are fitted. Refit the pinion bearing housing shim pack without change in thickness. Those rarely require replacing due to damage and the shim pack dimension should not change when the bearings are replaced. To preload the pinion bearings put red locktite on the nut and tighten it until some resistance is felt (oil the bearings) then chuck the shaft in a vice upright and wrap a string around the pinion housing. Connect the string to a spring scale and pull so as to unwind the string and spin the housing. The preload is correct if the scale reads 47-71 N (10-15 lbs, or 4.7-7.0 kg) after break-away. (With new, not used bearings of course). That corresponds to a torque of 2.5 +or- 0.5 Nm. Tighten the nut until you achieve that preload. Don't over-tighten because the crush sleeve won't spring back. Work fast or the red locktite will foil you. You probably can't get a new crush sleeve so place the old one on a shaft (you can use the pinion shaft) and tap it with a hammer around it's circumference so that it spreads out. It's hinky, but it works. A crush sleeve for a post '88 tranny will not work right and must not be used. Put blue (medium) locktite on the four 8 mm bolts that secure the pinion housing to the case and torque them to 20-25 Nm, same torque as all the other 8 mm bolts. Put thread sealant on the the 12 bolts that secure the inner driver housings to the main case. If you replace the tapered bearings in the input shaft housing re-use the same shims. Correct preload there is; zero load, zero play. You'll probably find that you need a new 1-2 shift fork and some of synchromesh balk rings. Those are available new. Best of luck.

posted by 206.123.221...
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