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adjust the waste-gate arm Posted by vvack0matic [Email]  (#1443) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from vvack0matic) on Sun, 17 Jun 2007 12:40:41
In Reply to: Re: first thing that comes to mind, stonewolf, Sun, 17 Jun 2007 11:15:46 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
the turbo may build pressure but having a weak pressure arm my send the boost out the back keeping it at base boost.
raise (tightening) the bolt setting on the arm, this will put more pressure on the waste-gate flap to turbo plate give it a twist of two revolutions but then the flap may be backed way way off the plate, in this case keep twisting the rod arm until it becomes snug, then do two revolutions after that.
and see if things improve.
now if the car dose not idle right as it sits now don't worrie about adjusting the waste-gate, this will not help in anyway.
while looking at the turbo make sure everything is tight (turbo unit to exhaust manifold) when the motor is cold grab it and give it a wiggle, see if it is tight or loose, look at the bolts (there are four of them) exhaust manifold to turbo. one last thing, look real close at where they join there should be a small metal gasket between the two.
what your mechanic said about leaving something loose is just wrong.
nothing in the turbo area should be loose.
make sure the turbo installed on your car is the new turbo or one that has ben cleaned with degreaser.
if the turbo had no oil in it and it was taken for a test drive the unit would over heat causing it to crack or blow the internal bearings.
when the crack happens the expansion of the crack only gets wider when the unit is cooking at 900 degrees.
the symptoms you are describing is a waste-gate full open.
if the turbo was destroyed on the test run, there may be a very large crack in the plate.
here is a test you can try.
after adjusting the rod arm when the motor is cold
take it out for a test. with the turbo cold (motor)
try to spool the turbo up. (dont bang on it hard,) just see if the throttle response is dead on.
when the turbo unit is cold the crack will be tight together making it possible for the unit to perform and give at lest one very good boost.
once the motor reaches operating temp. the turbo unit would be at or around 900 degrees and the crack would expand wide open.
in the end it may just be a simple waste-gate adjustment.
and tighten anything that the mechanic left loose.
when he/she snapped the bolts what did they do to get the stud out.
im thinking along the lines of, when the stud snapped they just left it in there and tightened the turbo to manifold with the remaining three.
if this is the case the turbo unit is fine and the boost pressure is escaping out the exhaust manifold to turbo joint.
a close inspection needs to be done. anything you ask the mechanic would came back to you with them saying (everything is 100%)
posted by 209.194.6...
, Sun, 17 Jun 2007 09:35:55, Sun, 17 Jun 2007 12:40:41 <-- Viewing This Message
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