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snap-on has the pressure plate tool $20, you can get Posted by nicknick [Email]  (#731) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from nicknick) on Fri, 14 Sep 2007 06:41:58
In Reply to: Bonding, PhilB, Fri, 14 Sep 2007 06:19:14 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
the seal kit for the slave-never installed one, but i did dismantle a slave for cleaning-used shop air to blow it apart. on a non-turbo, you have very little to dismantle, and a mechanic should be able to do it in 2 hours or less. you can do it in less than 6, i can almost guarantee it. the problem you will have is getting the pressure plate pre-loaded for removal, as your slave is dead. do you have a bently? the way to pre-load the pp without a slave is to lever the three points of the sprung section, visable through the three openings in the edge of the pp, slipping the spacer ring in as you go. easier than it sounds. for pre-loading the new pp, i used the jack method. i have one of those cheep trolley jacks, small type, with the removable cup. when you remove the cup (the one with the 4 highspots)you are left with a nice flat, round cup, which will depress the pp nicely, without damage. put the pp upside down, under the car, with a piece of ply between the bottom of the car and the friction surface, and slide the jack under it all, then jack up slowly to take up the slack. then, slowly jack up the center of the splines, until they suddenly depress, insert the spacer ring, and your away!. you will be prying the spacer back out of the old plate first ( i think i used vise grips on the 3 spring points on outside of pp). sorry bout my description, it's a little early in the morning. do some searches on the board, thats where i started from with this operation. don't forget to pull the input shaft. i didn't bother resurfacing the flywheel, but you shouldmake that call when you see it. as you didn't run the center plate down to it's rivets, you probably are ok, but it is your call. if it looks smooth, with no cracks, i would leave it, but thats me. good luck-ps, remember that bleeding the clutch is a tricky business, best to use some pressure. oh, make sure you tighten bleeder back up afterwards. it is difficult to tighten, and when it comes loose, you can end up rear-ending a car at a stop light (don't ask!).
posted by 208.54.9...
, Sat, 15 Sep 2007 20:46:10, Fri, 14 Sep 2007 07:42:47
, Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:05:18, Fri, 14 Sep 2007 06:41:58 <-- Viewing This Message
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