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Clutch Master Cylinder?
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Mon, 11 Feb 2008 14:28:31 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 900 Master Cylinder., CArl Thame, Mon, 11 Feb 2008 09:14:15
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Carl, if it's the CLUTCH master cylinder you want to remove, you don't need to remove the knee bolster to do it, that's lots of unneeded work. Put a piece of cardboard down on the ground, or an old rug, and with driver door open, lie or sit on it and have a light and you can see and reach everything you need to deal with. Look at the shaft of the clutch pedal and part way up it a yoke attaches the pushrod that goes to the clutch master cylinder. There's a spring clip holding a "clevis pin" that attaches that yoke to the pedal. You pry that spring clip open a bit and push it up and it comes off the pin, then the pin comes out of the yoke. Set them aside to re-use.
Then look at where that push rod goes, thru a boot on the firewall. There are two 13mm headed nuts on studs on either side of it. That's what holds the clutch master cylinder to the firewall. They're "aircraft" type nuts, with nylon in them, so they turn hard all the way off, no spinning them with your fingers once cracked loose, but you should be easily able to remove each of them using a socket and ratchet or even a box end wrench.
Once you've looked and see what's what you could do this all by feel, only the clip and pin and two nuts.
On the engine side of things, you'll have to crack loose the flare nut of the hydraulic line leading to the clutch slave cylinder, then unscrew it all the way. This requires that you loosen or remove the steel clip holding that line to the bodywork on the inside of the wheelwell about a foot forward; it has a sheet metal screw with I think a torx head. And advice is to have the nuts holding it all to the firewall loose but not removed, so master cylinder can move around. More necessary on reassembly when getting that flare nut to start threading and to tighten down all the way requires a little motion of master cylinder.
Then there's the fluid feed hose, from bottom of brake reservoir to clutch master. My advice is remove it from the reservoir, not the master cylinder. Get a tiny pair of vise grips, lock on the tabs of the spring clip, clamping it open, and slide it a few inches down the hose, then release it. Then pry the hose off the nozzle that comes out of the reservoir, being careful not to push sideways and break the nozzle off. Hose rubber may be sort of stuck to the nylon nozzle. Have a cut-down paper coffee cup handy to catch the fluid that will come out if you don't want to make a mess. It's only a few ounces; clutch is fed by an upper side compartment of the brake reservoir and draining it down won't drain the brakes to a dangerous level.
You'll have to add brake fluid on reassembly, and then bleed the clutch. Do a search on "bleeding clutch" on this site and you'll find lots of advice on that.
Don't know Miami or Florida so can't advise on an indy Saab garage. Any ideas, fellow Saabnetters?

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