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How about your clutch pedal? Posted by Notnoel [Email] In Reply to: Clutch troubles, Harry Meyer, Thu, 10 Jul 2008 06:44:08 Members see ZERO ads on the bulletin boards and get more feature. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Until several days ago, I was having similar clutch issues (not fully disengaging, etc.). I also noticed that I had about an inch of play in my clutch pedal - it moved freely for the first inch downward.
I didn't think too much about it when I installed it during my recent tranny swap, but I did notice that shifting was at times difficult, particularly that I could only put the car into reverse with the motor running. For instance, when I'd pull into the garage and shut the car off in 1st and turn the car off, it wouldn't go into reverse so I could get the key out - would go into neutral with engine off, but not reverse. I'd have to start the car put it into 1st, then reverse. Also, If I held the clutch in at a stop light, occasionally the car would sputter out as if partially in gear. Another symptom was that the shift between 1st and second seemed a little labored.
Anyway, after a little research here,, I learned that the hole that the cotter pin (connecting the pedal to the master cylinder)passes through can become seriously enlarged so that the pedal no longer travels through the entire sweep that is required to fully disengage the clutch. You can easily check this out by laying on your back and examining the pedal - master cylinder junction with a flashlight. I ordered a new pedal and bushings (about $75) and installed it in about a half hour.
You don't need to remove the knee bolster to swap it out, and while it is a bit of a PITA, it is very easy to do. Remove the driver's seat so you can lay down, undo the torx screw that holds the plastic HVAC duct to the dash and bend it out of the way. The rest is just a bit of tight access wrenching, disconnecting and reconnecting the return spring, etc. It is about a two beer job.
posted by 63.139.1...
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