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, Mon, 1 Dec 2008 09:59:25
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Hey there - that's a hydraulic mount (just like mine).
Basically here's what I did... I've done a couple this way and works great.
You're going to have to raise up the engine a bit so that the mount can be removed... but you don't want to overstress your other engine mounts. So #1...
Look at your front engine mount. It has a bracket holding it down with 2 13mm bolts. Undo those bolts so that they are almost (but not entirely) removed. This will allow the mount to raise up a bit when you jack up under the engine. (note: dont forget to retighten these upon completion!)
Next undo the 3 nuts shown in your picture on the mount. I think the center nut is 19mm, the outer 2 are 17mm. The outer 2 hold down that bracket that "limits" the movement of the mount. These nuts may all be on good and tight but will come free with a long handled deepsocket rachet. I also used like an 18" extension so that I was working up high above the fender level.
Note: you might want to throw a towel or protection over the pass side fender. I always do, helps avoid nicks and stuff in the paint.
OK... so now that you've got the 3 nuts free and the front mount loosened, you will jack up underneath the car. This needs to be carefully done b/c if done wrong you can crack your transmission case. So... I take a hydraulic floor jack and slide underneath the car... put a wood "pad" over your jack to avoid metal to metal contact (or use a rubber jack pad). You want to jack under the engine right about where the transmission drain plug (woops your 94 wont have one) -- basically you want to jack under the rear part of the transmission... you'll see the area right behind the engine skid plate towards the rear of the car.
Note: my SPG's suspension is too low to fit a jack under. So before I jack the engine I have to use another jack to raise up the car. Not sure if your car will have this same problem.
Then carefully and SLOWLY jack the engine. Do a couple pumps, then look. Make sure that pass side engine mounting bracket is slowly rising and coming off the mount you are replacing.
Careful! The consequence of jacking too much would be either a bent shifter rod (resulting in shifting problems) or breaking your other 2 engine mounts -- this is why you've loosened the front mount).
I was able to slowly carefully jack mine up to the height where the diagonal metal bracket coming off the engine block/head is just above the level of the bolt pointing upwards from the rubber engine mount.
Note: it may be tempting to try and bang out those "bolts" on either side of the mount. Don't try, they're welded onto that bracket (ie they're not just stuck there).
At this time, please make sure your jack/the wood everything is stable... you dont want to have your hands in there and have the engine slip / fall. ouch.
Also... note the orientation of the actual mount. There is a small "notch" in one side of it that faces the pass side of the car. The new one will go in this same orientation
Now you wrestle out the engine mount. It is a b*tch. I eventually get it every time... but every time I wonder, , how is this at all possible. Even after just doing it yesterday, I couldn't explain it. Just keep flipping, moving, twisting. It'll come out... You will eventually pull it out TOWARDS the passenger side of the car, in between the mount's resting spot and the inner fender/driveshaft area of the car.
Clean the gook up.
Then take off the large washer from the old mount and place it on the new mount. NOTE: I forgot it and had to redo mine yesterday. Woops.
Wrestle the new mount back in... same way the other one came out.
Tighten the center nut, put on the limiting bracket and its 2 17mm nuts.
Tighten the front mount 13mm bolts.
Drive and ENJOY the smoothness.
posted by 75.151.5...
, Mon, 1 Dec 2008 04:29:37, Mon, 1 Dec 2008 09:59:25, Thu, 4 Dec 2008 16:01:54, Sat, 6 Dec 2008 14:27:32
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