1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Finding rust on Saabs is like visualizing an iceberg. If you find just a small amount assume there is a remaining 80% that is not visible on the surface.
If you live in an area where they use salt obviously the best thing is to not drive it in the winter. If it were my car, I had a bit more time and a place to work, here is what I would do in the order that I would do it.
a) INSIDE - strip out the interior carpet/seats - check integrity along "rocker-panels/rails" inside vehicle from front to rear - as well as weld areas for mud flaps under rear seat; check areas in and around wheel wells at front and rear INSIDE car - these seams are starting points for rust. If you have rust then consider using POR15 if it is not integrity related - POR15 is not to be applied over paint so you have to balance stripping off interior undercoat against using POR 15 - however if you have exposed rusty metal then its a good choice; You must remove the foam padding on the floor to get to all this.
b) OUTSIDE - power spray, where possible, entire underside to see where undercoating is flaking off - weak areas with rust underneath will be exposed - key areas: wheel wells inside at the weld points, on the rails and right at A arm area, along the complete outer edge of the wheel well - exposed after removing trim, complete A arm area; front skid plate area and weld points from body panel to underneath at this area just below radiator- this rusts badly; shock tower inside car and outside - check integrity; lower door panel areas - remove door trim to check -plus door sill kick plates front and back; rear wheel well entire area - accessible from INSIDE vehicle, trunk area and weld points accessible after removing carpet/lid from trunk etc. Check ALL drain and assorted rubber plugs underneath car - don't be afraid to poke around with a screw driver - it will reveal weak spots.
Check underneath windscreen trim and be prepared for rust there - NIP this in the bud, door handles and underneath side mirrors as well - the slightest rust here will grow quickly.
c) each of these areas - specifically wheel wells - inside and out plus underneath at door area and drain plugs are traps for moisture - SAAB designed these to have a "flow through" system front to back but it means moisture and salt will get trapped if not flushed out regularly;
d) Its unlikely you have NO rust but small amounts can be treated with POR15. I personally think its debateable about what is gained by scraping off existing undercoating on the entire car - some do to check quality of metal underneath. If it does flake off then you DO need to treat metal underneath. I am a believer in applying additional undercoating after - BUT this can trap moisture and accelerate rusting if you are not careful where you put it.
Note that at the rear wheel wells in and out there are several rubber plugs wih tiny holes - these are perfect to put oil spray with wand. Use Rust Check or equivalent Unival?Krown from Home Hardware.
e) Once you have checked everything you will notice that car is designed so that you can apply oil spray everywhere - I use two types - Rustcheck/Krown - which comes in a thick oil coating and then a lighter spray with more flow. I spray -EVERYWHERE - and use the thick stuff to fill cavities and anywhere there is an access point -thin stuff goes into door sill kick panel drill holes, rubber plugs, windscreen trim, door handles, shock towers, A arms and back, and I do so twice a year - spring and fall.
The objective is to get this stuff INSIDE moisture traps - once there it will flow and creep along.
f) Wash regularly - be prepared to pull carpet every other year or so to check integrity of floor panel - especially on passenger side which for some reason rusts more often on Saabs.
Other insights:
First- if trunk then floor - pull up seats and carpet from front to rear: check the rails and the floor pan with seats out and carpet/padding removed completely;
second - if trunk then wheel wells - probe and feel in UNDER the entire rear trunk area near gas line and pull up foam padding at wheel wells to check there as well;
third - if trunk then A arms - check front A arm areas for rust;
Assume nothing check everything.
he seam along the trunk line (running parallel to bumper) and the area under the rear quarter panel tend to rust as does the area around the gas fill up intake on the trunk side - if you can do it reach in and feel around in the hidden spots left and right - POR 15 highly recommended
ALSO highly recommended:
Pull the carpet completely off the wheel well areas and get some rustcheck or krown oil treatment in there between the inner and outer wheel wells
- you can do this because these are hollow cavities
I use the rubber plugs both on the inner and outer rear fenders to do shoot oil into the cavities
look for either black or red rubber plugs near the the front of the fender at the rear inner door panel area and in the inner fender area near the shock tower - get some oil in there!
in fact pull off the entire carpet from the entire vehicle and assess and treat the whole floor pan - you will be glad you did now
posted by 24.139.16...
, Thu, 7 Jan 2010 22:26:51
, Fri, 8 Jan 2010 02:45:50
, Sun, 11 Mar 2012 17:05:56
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