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Re: Mmmm-was afraid of that kind of news! Thanks for Posted by 900 Aero [Email] (#425) [Profile/Gallery] (more from 900 Aero) on Thu, 14 Apr 2011 12:43:50 In Reply to: Mmmm-was afraid of that kind of news! Thanks for, nicknick [Profile/Gallery] , Wed, 13 Apr 2011 20:48:04 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
On a TE05 both the turbine and compressor housings align to the bearing housing with dowels so you don't need to mark anything there. Biggest thing is to carefully tap the turbine housing side to side while removing it so you don't damage your turbine wheel or worse yet bend it's friction welded shaft area! Same taping side to side goes for the compressor housing but it comes off much more easily. A DIY rebuild can be successful without re-balancing if you mark the rotor group components including the nut so everything goes back together exactly the same. Most Mitsubishi turbo's have a fairly large area ground from the end of the turbine wheel that looks kind of like a 12 point nut for it's outside plane balancing from the factory so I use that flat spot to grab it securely in a vice to remove the compressor wheel nut so the center of that flat spot is an excellent place for an alignment mark (an electric pencil works great!). Then while the whole rotor group is vertical in a vice you can mark the compressor wheel and nut right on up to the (quill) end of turbine wheel shaft. Remember to always use a T handle to remove the compressor wheel nut, in other words if you use a ratchet wrench it will bend the small portion (quill) of the turbine wheel shaft!!! As far as re-balancing the only other thing beside marking everything to retain the factory balance is the make sure the turbine wheel shaft isn't bent! They usually get bent from improper dismantling but sometimes they aren't close enough from the factory (should be within .0005"). Anyway if yours is bent and has to be straightened you will have to have everything re-balanced. Checking for straight is done both with V blocks and between centers plus I have a way to check and correct the dreaded friction weld bend if you have a lathe available with a test dial indicator. Other than all this you'll need to measure your turbine wheel shaft (journal) diameters and your bearing housing bearing bore diameters as well as your sealing ring bores to see if they'll fly as is? Remember I have all these specs and you can call me if you have troubles along the way! Dave 805-235-3951.
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