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Turbo Oil Feed Replacement Posted by Justin VanAbrahams [Email]  (#32) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Justin VanAbrahams) on Thu, 19 May 2011 17:10:55
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For the third time in my life the metal oil feed line for the turbo failed, this time on my '85. They all seem to fail about the same spot, right at the junction of the flange and the pipe itself. Last time it happened on my '90, I built a replacement hose. That worked out so well, I did it again. IMHO, this is a worthwhile thing to do if you happen to be replacing your turbo - it eliminates the possibility you have a clogged up oil feed line that will shortly wreck your new turbo. Some turbo manufacturers will not warranty new turbos unless you replace the oil feed line during installation. (Yes, it's probably a scam, but rules is rules)
Here's what's involved:
1. About 30" of -4an Aeroquip AQP stainless steel braided hose. There are plenty of other brands, just be sure it's braided stainless and rated for oil (as opposed to brake fluid, etc.). You can get this from Summit, amongst other places.
2. Function7 aluminum T3 oil feed flange with a -4an fitting (they come in other sizes). It's a nicely made part that does the job beautifully. It's available from ebay, and includes a good quality replacement gasket. It has a pressure restrictor, which you'll want to drill out to its maximum size - it's not necessary on the c900. Details on that are included with the fitting.
3. M14->-4an adapter. Earl's makes one, part number 9919BFH. This gets threaded into the block where the banjo fitting was.
4. Two -4an 90 degree swivel-seal type fittings. Earl's make these too, part number is 309104. I used Earl's fittings the first time, but the second time around I used some from Red Horse. They were significantly easier to assemble, for whatever that is worth.
It's about $100 in parts. You *may* want to buy some AN wrenches to help assemble/install, but they aren't necessary. Mostly they just keep the pretty anodized fittings pretty. Standard (SAE) wrenches will do the job, but if you're not careful may damage the finish. Total time from start to finish is less than two hours.
1. Cut the hose to length. Wrap strong tape around the hose where you're going to cut it to prevent the braid from getting wrecked. You will need something tough to cut it, preferably a good cutoff wheel, etc.
2. Remove the "cover" from the 90 degree fitting you've purchased, and screw it onto the end of the hose. Be sure to gently squeeze the braid into the "cover". You don't want it unraveling. And, be aware that cut stainless braid is SHARP. Different fittings have different assembly techniques, but most of the covers are reverse threaded, so it's lefty-tighty. :) A 9/16" or 14mm ratcheting box wrench makes assembly a snap. It helps to lubricate the threads ever so slightly - Marvel Mystery Oil works great. The Earl's fittings are barbed and you will need a vice to assemble. The Red Horse fittings I used last were threaded. In both cases, again with the Mystery Oil to make insertion easier. Take note of the relative positions of the block fitting and turbo - you have some fidget room when installing these fittings to get the right angle. I've found you want them about 90 degrees apart, easy to achieve. You do not want the hose twisted. Assemble the other end of the hose.
3. Screw the metric->AN adapter into the block. Be sure you use a crush or sealing washer between it and the block to prevent leaks. It's tight in there, but you can use a deep-throat socket and an extension so your ratchet is "outside" of the intake manifold area. IIRC, the fitting's hex is 11/16"
4. Snake your hose (HA!) in roughly the same position as the old metal pipe. You have some room to wiggle here, so if you've got some custom plumbing or wiring in the area, now is your chance to position this hose in a place it isn't in the way.
5. The worst part of this job is threading your hose onto the adapter - there is not a lot of room to work under there! I'd recommend disconnecting the battery and removing (at least) the battery cable between the starter and alternator. I didn't do that, and just struggled. DO disconnect the battery! You do not want a tool hitting the alternator or starter terminals! A stubby wrench really helps here, as you can use it under the intake manifold. You're going to want the fitting angled at about 10 o'clock, pointing towards the thermostat housing.
6. Install the Function7 adapter on the turbo. You MOST LIKELY do not want to use the bolts they supplied, they are actually not quite long enough, especially once you get the distributor heat shield on there. Get some M8x1.25 20mm socket cap bolts and a thick washer. Socket cap screws are necessary to clear the relief on the adapter. The thick washer is used so the heat shield clears the relief. If you use their gasket, use their torque specs. If you use a Saab/paper gasket, use the factory torque specs.
7. Thread the hose onto the Function7 flange.
8. Connect up the battery, fire it up, check for leaks!
posted by 207.15.18...
, Thu, 19 May 2011 17:10:55 <-- Viewing This Message, Sun, 22 May 2011 12:36:10, Thu, 19 May 2011 23:33:06
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