1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
this is by no means complete, but is a good place to start:
7mm nut driver, especially if you have a turbvo, trust me - using a screwdriver on saab hose clamps is for the birds
10mm nut driver is handy too
6 sided short sockets from 7 to 19mm
6 sided deep sockets, same range
see how it says 6 sided. you want that, not 12 sided
you're going to use 10, 12, 13, 17, 18, 19 more than the other sizes, but eventually you'll need them all, plus some SAE sizes that occur periodically
extensions, including a couple wobbly ones
3/8 ratchet don't cheap out, get a good one
3/8 universal joint swivel for sockets
i have a 1/2 inch ratchet that i never use, so don't bother
1/2 inch breaker bar
32mm socket, same as 1 1/4 inch, for axle nuts
19mm socket for lugnuts. i don't use the breaker bar for much else but...
1/2 in. to 3/8 drive converter IMPACT type, not regular, which you will break. impact is stronger
combination wrenches, up to 19mm
stubby combo wrenches, 10, 12, 13mm
get a 1/4 inch bit driver that stores bits in the handle, take out all the screw driver and square bits and replace with torx bits unless you have an 85 or older car, which uses phillips head screws
1/4 inch flexible shaft driver
set of hex drives, small sizes will be 1/4 in. square, larger will be 3/8
set of torx drives, small sizes will be 1/4, larger will be 3/8
three pound short handled hammer
dikes, needle nose pliers, wire cutters
couple small pointy pick tools, one straight, one curved
set of pry bars
a few vise grips, i like a small needle nose, small standard and regular
stnadard size
the channel locks in the trunk tool kit are actually pretty good and you'll use them periodically
for cv work, get a good quality split ring spreader tool. you can get a cheap one but it'll make you cry. the channel lock brand is very good, but about 20 bucks. i don't regret it
set of wire brushes of various sizes
brake cleaner, carb cleaner, white lithium grease in spray can, silicone spray (get the good stuff, with lots of silicone), elect. contact cleaner, tub of moly grease, anti-seize, and pb blaster or liquid wrench type penetrent, brake anti squeal spray, blue shop towels
black sharpie, silver sharpie
telescopic magnetic retrieval tool
cheapo harbor freight stethoscope
mighty vack vacuum pump if you have a turbo car
timing light, by cheap used on ebay, inductive type
if you are removing an engine get a good quality 13mm wobbly, not with the universal joint if possible but with the ball joint, which is better. handy for the trans/eng separeation
small 1/4 inch ratcheting wrench so you can use a 1/4 inch hex bit to remove slave cylinder
big box of nitrile gloves, preferably as thick as you can find and preferably not black (can't tell when they're dirty). by nitrile i mean nitrile not latex
wood blocks to shim upper control arms. search this website for the size. this is not really optional, plenty you won't be able to do without shimming first
this isn't everything youll need but it's a good start. save yourself some money and get most of this stuff at harbor frieght, sears isn't that great any more and more money.
finally if you have the money do yourself a favor and get a decent cordless impact wrench, 3/8 drive with 100 to 150 ft lb torque. having one will save you tons of money and the small ones are good for lots of work on these cars. dewalt, makita, milwaukee, etc. harbor freight sells junk. really big ones that do 300 ft lbs are good for axle nuts but too heavy for lots of general work
posted by 31.172....
, Tue, 3 Jul 2012 13:54:37
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