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Then I'd say the first place to start is to check
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Posted by Notnoel [Email] (#23) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Notnoel) on Sun, 3 Feb 2013 09:14:02 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Are you saying you don't loosen the claw bolt?, Chris D, Sun, 3 Feb 2013 00:39:09
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is your base timing. How do you know if your distributor is "roughly in the right orientation," if you haven't checked it? It may be that with everything new, the ECU may be able to just barely pull it into a proper operating range, but once these things begin to wear in and tolerances develop, the ECU can no longer hack it. I have LH2.4 in my 1990 turbo, and I still must set my base timing (BTW that capsule is to retard the spark, not advance it).

There's more to correct timing than simply the advance mechanism. The baseline for that advance needs to be correct.I don't own a 900S, but I have a hard time imagining that the distributor never needs to be adjusted at all under any circumstances. Otherwise that claw bolt would not exist.

Checking my Bentley (page 340-15), I see no mention that some models do not need to have their timing set (at all). As far as I can tell, your timing set at idle should be 14 degrees BTDC. If it is off that, you are making your ECU work overtime to put it into the proper range.

These ECUs are easily capable of operating effectively at a wide range of settings (I set mine up at 18-22 rather than 16, depending on my mood and desire for fuel economy), but if it is too far out, the car is simply not going to function properly and there's not a damn thing the ECU can do about it.

Setting up your timing at idle to specs is the logical starting place in diagnosing any ignition problem, I'd strongly suggest you start by checking your base timing.

->Posting last edited on Sun, 3 Feb 2013 09:25:23.
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