1979-1993 & 94 Conv [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
 | [Main C900 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Re: Front pipe-cat exhaust gasket and bolts Posted by Snowmobile [Email]  (#686)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Snowmobile) on Wed, 30 Apr 2014 03:07:22
In Reply to: Front pipe-cat exhaust gasket and bolts, aka Arabiflora, Tue, 29 Apr 2014 18:12:50 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Yup, Paul is right - the diagram is correct. If you have a stock 2.1L (1993 900s in North America), it uses a donut ring between the flanges of the cat and the downpipe. This allows some tilt in the cat wrt the downpipe. It can be a pita to seal though. 4 bolts hold the flange/donut/flange sandwich together on the 2.1L or 3 on the 2.0L. The downpipes and cats are different for the 2.1L and 2.0L exhaust systems. The two systems are pretty much completely incompatible - the only compatible surface is where the downpipe bolts up to the manifold. BTDT. 2.1L NA and 2.0 turbo both have the same pipe diameter and are mostly compatible, but 2.0NA has a narrower pipe. I have a 1993 2.1L and a 1989 2.0LNA with a 2.1L downpipe, and turbo exhaust. Put that together last fall. Louder, but otherwise great!
I'm also in the rustbelt, so I don't even think about reusing bolts. Cut them with a dremel cutoff wheel and you'll have it apart in a jiffy. Reassemble with stainless nuts/bolts if you want to be able to disassemble or readjust in the future. I just get them at the hardware store. Double the cost on $2 worth of parts is money well spent if it doesn't corrode!
WRT "missing the donut"... um, if your car is actually missing the donut, it must be really really loud! I mean undrivable loud! It would mean you have an open pipe just before the cat... Maybe you just have a pinhole there? Sealing the donut is not easy if it is not fairly straight. Aligning these exhausts requires a bit of artwork... if all is otherwise good, support the exhaust in place with lumber before you cut the bolts on the flange! Oh and go easy on the bolts when you tighten the flange if the joint between flange and pipe to cat or downpipe is rusty - if you torque things too much, and the parts are rusting, it is easy to tear the flange from the pipe... meaning welding, or a new downpipe (and O2 sensor fiasco), or a new cat (depending what you break)...
good luck!
->Posting last edited on Wed, 30 Apr 2014 03:12:46.
, Wed, 30 Apr 2014 14:29:31, Wed, 30 Apr 2014 03:07:22 <-- Viewing This Message
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
