O-ring Sizes For Clutch Slave Rebuild: 35, 39, 49 - Saab 900 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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O-ring Sizes For Clutch Slave Rebuild: 35, 39, 49
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Thu, 18 Sep 2014 16:12:18 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Rebuilding a Clutch Slave Cylinder?, Landjet [Profile/Gallery] , Thu, 18 Sep 2014 15:52:33
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That's I quote here the contents of a post I did on this nine years ago:

Those o-ring sizes, for an OEM clutch slave, if you want to do it yourself and if you find a seals distributor near where you are:
3mmx35mm, 3mmx39mm, 3mmx49mm.

All standard round o-rings.

I quote in part here from the contents of a post I did on this nine years ago:

I used Buna though the o-ring distributor said the best is EPDM rubber aka EPR, next best is neoprene. He had neither and to make an order it needed to be many many units though a larger distributor might have them in stock and sell by the each.

Buna lasted (several years) no problems, were so very cheap ($2.02 total plus tax) and so easy to do, I don't care if they go bad tomorrow. My guess is that even Saab uses Buna rubber; I think mine will last for years.
Clean cylinder well, especially any rust on the steel part (piston). Mine had some pitting in both steel and aluminum, but well out past the travel (sealing) area of any motion "

The "Piston" part of the slave, what oldsaab's pic (in 2008) shows in two different materials, moves in and out but it's a relatively limited motion. The area you are worried about due to being marked up is always extended so isn't sealed against by any o-ring.

In reassembling the slave you would be pushing that area past the new o-ring in the slave's body, the 39mm one. You'd want to smooth any roughness so nothing would cut the new oring but that should be easy to do.


It all comes apart just by pushing the parts out the back of the slave, three pieces. It goes together by pushing them back the other way. Clean it all up well, clean internally with rubbing alcohol, clean threads of bleeder screw and area where line screws in, power wirebrush any rust off the piston if you have the hardened steel one. I cleaned away some varnish stain on internal areas using ultrafine steel wool and alcohol, but it wasn't doing anything and I could have left that.

Use brake fluid or brake assembly lube on the orings and all sliding surfaces when you put it back together.

I got my o-rings at a seals distributor, (Seals Unlimited, in Portland, Maine) off the shelf, mere pennies apiece and I'm sure about the same cost still.



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