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Well amid blowing snow in low teens temps I finally made myself do the Hall Sensor diagnosis as detailed in a Service Information bulletin for EZK ignition posted at the townsendimports web site.
The result, during a time when the car definitely has no spark, is that the crank-mounted Hall sensor tests out perfectly fine. 10 volts power to the Hall sensor, voltage alternates between 5 volts and microvolts on signal from Hall sensor, as motor is turned. But cranking with key, no start, no spark.
So it's back to either coil/ignition amp, or maybe the EZK brain itself? I have a spare EZK unit in deep storage 5 miles away so will test that next, then???
Someone posting on here wondered how to probe the wires to the EZK since there's a hard plastic boot over the connector. Here's how:
Remove EZK from fender (2 torx bolts down from top lip of outer fender). Unclip and swivel multiplug off EZK. Remove (#1 Phillips) short screw on back shoulder of plastic hood at one end. Pry off and pull up rubber boot between plastic hood and wire loom, and try to slide it up the wire loom some. Nip off and throw away the zip tie holding wire loom onto the plastic hood.
Then multiplug block will pry out of the plastic hood. (I used needlenose pliers to tug it from a plastic prong at each end.) It comes out far enough to reveal the wires entering, clearly labeled by number. Meter probes easily stick in alongside each crimp connector where you need to test it.
Plug block into EZK, dangling loose. Turn ignition on. Probe from #10 to #4 for 10 volts more or less. Probe from #10 to #24, ignition on, then jack up driver wheel, put car in gear, pull plugs so you aren't fighting compression, and turn wheel which will turn engine over slowly. As the shutter opening passes the Hall sensor, voltage should jump sharply up, then back to near zero. It did so, very reliably, then after I put plugs back in I tried motor, but definitely no start. I put a timing light on it too, actually on the coil to distributor HT lead in case there were some fault with the rotor or cap, but definitely no spark.
I'm going to try some heat on the coil-ignition amp area, since this trouble has seemed temp-related, and then also on the EZK box itself. (I've already tried a little light rapping on each area, with no results.) Then I'll dig out and try my spare EZK. If nothing then, guess I'll spring for a new coil/ign. amp. No idea where I could borrow one for testing.
posted by 71.173.7...
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