1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Several weeks ago I ended a nightmarish chain of events involving both CV joints ('95 Aero). To make a very long story a bit shorter, 18 months ago my original boots needed replacing at only 45k miles, far too early by my experience.
Unfortunately, a month ago I noticed that the left boot had already disintegrated and the joint FUBAR because the grease had slung out and the naked joint left exposed to the elements. The right boot was broken but the joint was apparently not damaged, at least to my knowledge at that time. I ordered a rebuilt axle assembly for the left side, the cheapest avenue for a fix, but the first part received was too long for my car. A replacement, Fed-Ex overnighted at great cost, was then too short. In a panic by then and thinking my car had some odd part unbeknownst to the vendor selling me the axle assemblies, I ordered a new CV joint from Kachina Saab in Scottsdale, AZ at a substantial discount, though still much higher than had I ordered the new Lobrow part (same as stock) from Sobstory or some other aftermarket outfit.
So, that task completed by an indy, I set out to change the right boot myself. After three hours of arduous work and multitudinous expletives streaming from my garage, I was unable to remove the joint from the axle. So, off I went again to the indy, who told me the CV joint had been hacked to death by the people who previously changed the boots 18 months ago, and that the right CV joint also needed replacing. So after another $350 from Kachina and $150 labor I was up and running with two new joints and boots, and a depleted checking account.
My advise is to change that boot ASAP if not sooner! When the boot is broken the grease escapes and unsavory elements, none of which are favorable to CV-joint life, enter the joint to eventually destroy it. In theory, replacing the boot is a two-hour, greasy, messy job that a moderately qualified QIY'er can accomplish by following the procedures on Quasi's site. As an addendum to that prescription, and probably the route I'll take next time around, it might be better to remove the axle assembly from the hub and at the transaxle, place it in a vise and work on the joint in that arena rather than with the assembly still on the car. Messing with that damn little snap ring that holds the joint to the axle, at least from my limited experience, is an aggravating hassle. Doing it the other way involves only two additional steps: Remove the axle nut from the hub and the large inner boot clamp on the other end so the inner boot can allow the axle to separate at that point. Dealing with the snap ring is easier on a vise than on the car. You'll need a new clamp for the large end of the inner boot, of course.
Summary: Don't let a broken boot remain unattended! Fix it now! After the trouble I've had, mine will be checked every few thousand miles and replaced at the first sign of cracking or disintegration.
posted by 68.11.18...
, Wed, 5 Jun 2002 21:12:39, Thu, 6 Jun 2002 13:02:28
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