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Thought I'd post with my notes from last night's voltage regulator replacement - several prior postings on the board helped me out, and this is mostly a compilation of their info. This is quite complicated, but the space is very tight and cramped, so precise instructions may help someone avoid the arm-scrapage and frustration that I had.
Symptoms - in recent hot weather, found the battery dead last week. After jumping, noticed that idle voltage was under 12 volts with accessories on. Even on the highway, with lights and AC, the voltage barely cracked 12, and with everything electrical off, didn't make it to 13.
I read some past postings on an in-car replacement of the voltage regulator. One said it was impossible, another two said it could be done, but was messy. I looked at the KAE regulator from Import Parts Specialists ($10.78) and said what the heck, it's worth a shot. The Bosch was $41.96, so I went with the cheaper. Comparing the two, the Bosch appears to have thicker and beefier soldering on the exposed solder joints, but the brushes look the same.
The replacement:
Tools required:
Flashlight
screwdriver (mine was flathead, other pictures show phillips)
Tools Recommended:
10mm socket wrench to disconnect oil dipstick tube from engine
Screwdriver-bit ratchet, with 6 or 12-inch extention, for tough screws
disposable gloves and old work shirt, duct tape
Extendable magnetic picker-upper for small dropped screws
One right-handed person (if you're a lefty, bless ya, but you may have a tougher time with this)
My Process:
Donning two layers of gloves and an oil-resistant long-sleeve shirt, I duct taped the gloves to the sleeves. This will prevent your forearms from being shredded, as you will need to do a lot of uncomfortable reaching around the engine back. Nothing particularly tough, just annoying. Total time was about 20 minutes.
First, use the flashlight to illuminate the back of the alternator, on the passanger side (US) of the engine, behind the head and facing the oil dipstick tube. Unbolt the tube bracket for easier access. Determine the type of screw that holds the regulator on. Lay on top of the engine with your feet past the bumper and your head towards the passanger compartment. Reach with your right arm and attempt to loosen the screws with the screw driver. In my case, they were very tight. I had to use the ratchet with a screwdriver bit - use your left arm on the ratchet extension to stabalize the bit in the screw, while your right hand turns the ratchet. After it is loosened, a screwdriver or just your fingers works to undo it. Remove the 2 screws and remove the regulator (no wires to disconnect). Installing the new one is the reverse process, though a bit tougher. Put one screw trough the new regulator and hold it in your right hand (the angle with your left hand will probably be too awkward to exert the force needed to retract the contacts). Reach back in and install the new regulator by inserting it at an angle into the slot, then twisting it inwards to compress the springs on the contacts, and push it firmly against the body of the alternator. Finger-tighten the screw. Then grab the other screw, and right-handedly manipulate the regulator until you line up the screw holes and tighten the screw. Use the screwdriver to firmly tighten down.
Results:
Idling voltage never drops below the mid 12's, even with AC fan and lights on. On highway, it approaches 14 in hot weather. Car also seems much, much less apt to stall making slow manuvers at low revs, like parking in a tight space. Highly recommended for the $10 or so it cost me.
posted by 63.225.104...
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