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Re: Depends Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Tue, 2 Dec 2003 13:03:36
In Reply to: Re: Depends, Shawn C., Tue, 2 Dec 2003 11:32:36 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I believe the wire doesn't actually come from the ignition switch - it's part of a swtich circuit off a relay.
The wire to the alternator goes in through the aquarium to the circuit board of the EDU behind the dash, and there it connects to the BATT light bulb. You gave an interesting piece of data that probably points to the problem:
"..... i was testing the field wire off of the alt. with cheap voltmeter .. i'd get no reading .. work probes around - then get 12 volts ... "
What that tells me is that the voltage appears and disappears as you mess with the end of the wire coming out of the false firewall. If I'm looking for a place where something is intermittent, I'd look at the wire I'm fumbling with, not with a wire on the ignition switch which isn't being played with. Do yourself a favor - take the negative probe of the meter and jamb it into the ground clamp on the battery. If that doesn't work, use a clothespin to clamp it to a good ground. Now, take the positive probe, hold it on the alternator wire, and move the wire around. If you see the 12 volts disappearing, then assume that you've got a crappy wire, probably between the firewall and your hand. If the insulation is poor, it'll wick up water and corrode the wiring. Much more likely for that to happen in the heat and vibration of the engine compartment than the relatively nice environment of the cabin where the ignition switch lives.
I've replaced alternator excitation wires before. Follow it back until it disappears into a wire bundle. Cut off cable ties as necessary (you can always buy more) to follow it back as far as you can. Eventually it'll dive into a plastic sheath, most likely in a protected part - inside the aquarium. Carefully cut back the sheath a few inches, cut the old wire, and wire in a new wire. The copper portion of the old wire should look nice and bright, and the insulation in nice shape. If the wire looks brown or green, you need to dig farther back to get to some good wire. Ideally you should solder the new one, but even a really good twist with the fresh wire, covered in some heat shrink tubing (best) or electrical tape (usually good enough).
I'll bet the old wire is simply rotted - water has gotten in and corroded away strands. It would be great to splice in a new one right from the bulb on the EDU, but you really only need to get back to good wire, usually in a protected area.
posted by 192.249....
, Tue, 2 Dec 2003 10:48:04, Tue, 2 Dec 2003 09:18:50, Tue, 2 Dec 2003 11:02:26, Tue, 2 Dec 2003 13:03:36 <-- Viewing This Message
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