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Re: Wiper fluid reservoir replacement.. Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Thu, 12 Feb 2004 10:06:40
In Reply to: Wiper fluid reservoir replacement.., rhale, Thu, 12 Feb 2004 09:19:28 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The PS hoses are expensive but I would not go back to that mechanic again. Waaay out of line. Of course, that doesn't help with the fluid tank.
The tank is tricky to get to, but not hard. What does that mean? It means that it takes a little time an patience. It's located in front of the right front wheel, just inside the fender.
If you need to remove it, you should jack up and support the right front of the car with at least one jack stand. I don't know which of your two cars this is on - slight differences between the '94 and the '88. Just in front of the wheel, under the car, there is a horizontal plastic cover behind the air dam. You want to drop this cover. All it is held on with is 1/4 inch self-taping screws. You may need to remove some of the screws holding the fender inner liner in - this is the two-piece plastic thing between the tire and the engine. Again, depending on access, you may want to remove the fender inner-liner. Remove the wheel, and the liner can be removed after taking off about a dozen and a half of those same screws.
If you can see the bottom of the tank by dropping part of the horizontal panel, stick with that. My guess is that any leak will be near the bottom. If you can fix the tank in place, it's well worth the try. If it doesn't stay fixed, you might be able to take it out from below, after unbolting the tank at the top.
If the tank itself is cracked, it is difficult to fix. The tank is polyethlyene, which is very hard to glue. The stuff is pretty close to dense wax, and most glues, including epoxy, just fall off. You've got a couple of choices. One is to 'weld' it - the same way it was assembled. If you find a crack, you can touch it up with a soldering iron set low. The idea is to melt the parts on each side of the crack and let them flow together. The trick is not to go too deep - just 'mush over' the surface. The other possibility is some hot melt glues - basically, hot glue guns. Bostik Hot Thermogrip 6363, 6384, or 6390 are listed as bonding polyethylene (see http://www.primei.com/Hotmelt.htm).
Don't waste your time with epoxy or caulk.
So - what tools do you need? Jack and jack stand. Metric drivers (6 or 7 mm, or 1/4 inch usually works). Soldering iron. Nothing special.
posted by 192.249....
, Thu, 12 Feb 2004 10:06:40 <-- Viewing This Message
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