As Mark Suggests, Avoid Car with Traction Control (TCS) - Saab 9000 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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As Mark Suggests, Avoid Car with Traction Control (TCS)
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Posted by Peter Ingram [Email] (more from Peter Ingram) on Mon, 13 Sep 2004 06:18:00 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: The price, some info..., Julie, Sun, 12 Sep 2004 22:21:23
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It was optional from '94 on. If this car has TCS, I'd avoid it. The system CAN work well, but when things go wrong, you could potentially -- and eventually -- end up needing to replace the throttle body, which would run you $700 for the part alone.

You can tell if the car has TCS in a few ways:

1. When you start the car, if it has TCS, when the Brake Fluid light is still on, the red "Traction Control" light will also be on. The Brake Fluid light is the last one to go out upon startup, and the TCS light will go out along with it.

2. From inside the engine bay, look on the false firewall right behind where the oil filler tube is located:
-- If there are TWO devices mounted on the firewall, the left-most
device is the MAP sensor, with one hose coming out the bottom.
This is on ALL 9000s.
-- If there is a SECOND device to the right of the MAP sensor, with
the hose coming out on the right connected to a two-color plastic
valve (likely red and white) and ultimately connects to the
throttle body, and with the short hose on the right connecting to
nothing/venting to the atmosphere, the car has TCS.

My advice is to avoid the car if it's got TCS. That's not to say that if the price is right it might be worth the risk.

Other questions and info:

-- When driving the car, particularly once up to, say, 30 mph, when
you stomp on the gas, how far does the turbo guage swing into the red?
If you don't get close to or into the red, could mean you need to
replace the BPV/"Hooter Valve," a $50 part that you could replace
yourself, or it could be the BPC, a more expensive part that is also
an easy DIY project.

-- Any clunking noises from the front when accelerating or going
over bumps? Could mean motor mounts are going ($130 each for the
two hydraulic ones on the bottom, much less for two rubber ones on
top passenger side -- if these two top ones are cracked, I'd replace
ALL mounts). Could also mean the front control arms' rear bushings
are worn and needing replacement. Not the easiest of DIY jobs,
but certainly far from the worst. Also might need to front strut
bearings, which mount on top of the struts. Pretty easy DIY, couple
hundred bucks for the parts. Mine did need replacing.

-- Car missing at all at idle or any speed? This might suggest anything
from needing new CORRECT spark plugs (a specific NKG plug needed with
correct gap setting) to a new DI Cassette. Plugs are cheap and easy
DIY replacement, DI Cassette is a $300 part and also a VERY easy DIY
replacement project (although I'd start with plugs, vaccuum lines,
etc., before replacing DI).

-- Hear any squeaking/"crickets" coming out of the dash ONLY when the AC
system is on and the fan is running? Sure sign of needing to replace
the blower motor. Car smell of antifreeze inside? Sure indicator
that the heater core needs replacing -- ESPECIALLY if the windshield
has any sort of oily/greasy film on it. $500 - $600 including parts
at your Indie mechanic, or maybe around $150 in parts if you do
the work yourself.

-- When standing in front of the car, hood open, car running, hear any
rattling noises from the engine's front end (passenger side) after
the car's warmed up for a few minutes? If so, I'd wonder if the
timing chain might soon need replacing. I did this job myself, but
it's likely something to have your Indie do, replacing the head gasket
at the same time. I think this sort of work would run you around
$2,000 at a shop; it cost me far less for just the parts and my own
novice labor.

Don't mean to scare you with the list above, but these are pretty typical bits of work that all 9000s need at some point. There's a lot of debate about whether the timing chain and balance shaft chain should be replaced as a proactive measure, but I didn't want to deal with the much BIGGER problem of a failed chain later ($4,000-plus to repair damage from failed chain).

As a point of pricing reference, I bought an Aero of the dreaded '93.5 vintage (ALL of that year had TCS), 128K miles, new tranny and clutch, new water pump, new AC compressor, head gasket done, all TCS items replaced other than throttle body, no rust or wrecks, overall very good condition, for $3,250. I've put a lot of money into the car since, and I'd bet you'll likely have to do some of the work I did.

Good luck!

--Peter

'93.5 Aero 5 spd., 144K miles, all redone, never finished!

posted by 24.99.218...


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