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different years have differently controlled gauges
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Posted by gavin (more from gavin) on Fri, 15 Oct 2004 10:40:55 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: EDU error and freaky fuel gauge, Bob áåçòóð&a, Thu, 14 Oct 2004 23:45:33
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I converted my 1990 from an auto to a 5-speed. After that i walways got an ERR message from the EDU. I never figured out what it was exactly causing that, but when i swapped the edu itself to a 5-speed model edu, the err went away.

at one point i swapped the insturment cluster out with an older one, and at that point my fuel gauge no longer worked, nor temp gauge i think...

they might have gotten their power on different pins, but they gauges themselves work differently.

the older ones had internal "pins" that stopped the needle from going down past EMPTY, ot COLD...

the newer gagues, original in my 1990 and i'm sure in your 91, have no internal stopping mechanism, the needles will spin freely 360 degrees.

they are moved completely by electromagetism, and their resting point is sort of controlled by that too...

...in my messing around with all sorts of gauges in the instrument cluster... i realized that if the temp gauge AND the fuel gauge are not properly connected... then BOST of them will not work properly.

I'm not sure if you noticed your temp gauge not being accurate too, but my guess is that it might not be accurate.

They share the same 12v line, and the same ground, but they have different connections for their sensor, either fuel or temp...

so...

the needle position is regulated by the SENSOR line, not by the 12v line...

If you connect both the sensor lines to the GROUND lines, than BOTH temp and fuel will jump to the FULL position...

this makes perfect sense to me, and it gives a hint at how the sensors themselves work... as the resistance in the sensor goes UP, from feul level dropping, or temp rising, the ground connection grows weaker and weaker, DROPPING THE NEEDLE...

so...

your sensor for the fuel tank sounds like the problem... or something in that circuit. I will confirm that what you experience with the needle working, until you start the car, it normal... the needle moves to a starting position when the key is turned to on, then a seperate circuit activated when the car is started....


i think the EASIEST thing for you to do, since i've messed around with gauges for LITERALLY HOURS trying to trouble-shoot them... is...

get a used insturment cluster, and and used EDU...

i am almost certain that if you swap them out, your problem will be solved.

The cluster and edu swap will only take you 2 hours MAX, from start to finish... doing a careful job...

fixing the gauges as they are now, will NEVER happen... trust me... i bought a new cluster... you should do the same...

-gavin

posted by 69.168.104...

my 9000


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