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Replacing serpentine belt (long) Posted by TonyJ [Email]  (#407)  [Profile/Gallery]
(more from TonyJ) on Sat, 20 Nov 2004 07:58:13
In Reply to: need help on how remove and replace serpentin belt, Mike, Sat, 20 Nov 2004 07:28:45 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
If you search for "serpentine", you will get >700 matches. But the files only go back about 4 years, so you wouldn't find the following (my son and i have used the tool many times since):
Posted by TonyJ on May 22, 1999 at 15:12:43:
In Reply to: Re: Replacing serpentine belt posted by Tony G on May 21, 1999
at 10:33:08:
I noticed that on my old tensioner idler, one of the seals had stuck to the
inner race and was sliding along the outer instead; maybe that's why it
failed. It wasn't a catastrophic failure, it just got noisy. The bearing
still is tight and feels only slightly rough. The grease looks OK. Here is
an old posting that includes how to make the compression tool:
---------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Tony on January 28, 1999 at 22:53:15:
(Re-posted from Jan 22; if you had similar problems, we would appreciate
feedback) Having noticed a defect in the original serpentine belt on our 94
9000 Aero with ~50k miles, I decided to replace it before an upcoming long
trip. I made an adjustable tensioner compressor out of a 3/8-inch J-bolt
(that hooks onto the bottom notch), welding an 8mm bolt (to mate with the
top notch) to a bushing that slides on the J-bolt. Tightening a nut that
pushes on the bushing nicely compresses the tensioner. Everything went great
until I tried to remove the idler pulley from the tensioner to get the old
belt out. After much colorful language and a broken
crowfoot, I called my son Andy who had done this operation before on his 92
9000 and his wife's 91. He informed me that the Haynes manual has a caution
note that the bolt has a LEFT HANDED THREAD. I think it's inexcuseable that
the 11-volume official Saab service manual that cost a small fortune and
occupies an entire bookshelf and covers belt replacement in about 5 places
does not have any such warning.
Other tips: To get easy access with a socket to the bolt without removing
the plastic inner fender panel, make a hole to fit a 1.5 inch or so plastic
plug. The other (fixed) idler has a normal RH thread. Don't let it get
loose, or you may need to replace or repair the $350 bracket that holds the
alternator and power steering pump, a fate suffered by the above-mentioned
91 9000. A machine shop was able to repair the bracket by replacing the
munged alloy shaft with a steel bushing and Andy got to enjoy a couple of
days of fun in the garage.
---------------------------------------------------------
Other tips: Be careful with the coolant expansion tank top hose (small);
it's likely to break the plastic nipple where it enters the main body. It's
safest to drain out a little coolant, remove the hose, and tie it up out of
the way. If you should break it, a new one is over $100 or you can repair it
as follows: use a brass fitting designed to mate with a ~ 5/16 inch hose
(clamped to it) and having a 1/8 inch NPT pipe thread. With a soldering iron
having a 1/8 inch tip, melt/enlarge the hole to build up plasitc around it
until it is about 0.3" or just smaller than the tap drill (S). Drill and tap
the plasitc and screw in the fitting. Add shoe goo II all around to seal and
stiffen up the joint. This fix has worked fine so far, I no longer even
carry the junkyard spare tank I bought just in case.
---------------------------------------------------------
Good luck and keep us posted.
TonyJ
93 CSE turbo 5 sp. 222K (to be donated to Special Olympics today at E T Cote),
94 Aero 5 sp. 93K
97 CSE turbo 5 sp. 89K (replacing the 93)
posted by 24.34.16...
, Sat, 20 Nov 2004 07:58:13 <-- Viewing This Message
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