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Uh, wrong. It ain't no capacitor
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Fri, 4 Feb 2005 09:59:40 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 9000 Heater resistor problem, Mike Bloor, Fri, 4 Feb 2005 08:21:21
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The resistor pack consists of some coils of wire (resistors) and a Thermal Fuse. The coils and fuse sit in the airflow, cooling them. The idea is that if a resistor gets too hot, the thermal fuse blows. The most common condition for that is a fan setting of 1 - high current drop and low fan speed. Then shut down the car and the thermal soak pops the thermal fuse.

The fuse is a one-shot -once it blows, you throw it away. No reset.

There are three possible solutions -
1 - buy a new resistor pack. eEuroparts sells them for $77. See the link at http://www.eeuroparts.com/(a4sdmt55mryyqnevivgo3h55)/productdetail.aspx?searchResults=1&code=4634564. It also has a nice picture - that little cylinder with the two wires is the thermal fuse.

2 - Repair the pack by soldering in a new thermal fuse. Read the part number, and you can mail order them from most large electrical supply houses. The good news is that they're about $1. The bad news is that most places have a $25 minimum, and shipping charges. But maybe you can buy a bunch and sell them to folks on the BB. This is NOT a Radio Shack Item. Be careful soldering in the new one, so you don't overheat (and pop it)

3 - Put a jumper wire across the thermal fuse. Of course, I can't officially recommend this (officially? Who do I represent?). But really, the fuse is there in case the blower motor pulls lots of current due to bad bearings or jams. And the downside would be blowing a resistor. If that happened, you'd be back to #1.

If it matters any, I've been living with the #3 temporary solution in one car for about 4 years now. But don't tell anyone.

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