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Re: No Start Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Thu, 30 Mar 2006 06:16:56 In Reply to: No Start, DerekJ, Wed, 29 Mar 2006 18:00:11 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
My no-start list is primarily for a car that turns over, but won't catch. Your car won't turn over.
Cleaning the battery contacts is definately the first step. It's important to remove the clamp, and clean on the inside of the clamp and the outside of the post. That's the contact surface that carries the current. I say this because some folks will clean up the outside of the clamp - while neatness counts, that portion doesn't carry current.
When you say 11 volts, I assume you're seeing that on the EDU. That implies that as you turn the key, the dash lights all come on. The EDU grabs the battery voltage as the car starts (or doesn't, in your case). 11 volts isn't too bad - it's about what I'd expect the battery voltage to drop to with electrical loads, but the starter not necessarily turning. Cleaning the battery contacts won't hurt, but that may not be it.
When you turn the key to the start position, do you hear a click from the engine compartment, and do the lights dim? If the lights don't dim AND you DON'T hear a click, then power isn't making it to the starter solenoid. If the lights don't dim AND you hear a click, then the starter solenoid is moving. If that is the case, either the solenoid contacts are bad or the starter itself is bad. The solenoid is just a big relay, using a solenoid to make a big electrical connection to supply power to the starter. If the lights don't dim, then there is no big current flow. It's not uncommon for the contacts internal to the solenoid to get dirty and not carry current. It could also be a dead spot on the starter motor commutator. Either one requires the starter to get pulled.
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