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Re: But I love my 9000! Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Fri, 12 May 2006 05:33:26
In Reply to: But I love my 9000!, Saabriel, Thu, 11 May 2006 22:26:25 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
A quick survey-
Antenna mast - $18.
Exhaust leak - it would be nice to know more, but assume he's right, and at say $65 an hour, you're lookinga t $225.
Oil leak - that sounds like the valve cover gasket is leaking - no surprise. $20 buck for the gasket and an hour of easy work. If it is the distributor plug, those leak. But I'd assume it's the valve cover. The head gasket is actually much lower on the engine than most folks assume.
Torn boot - Tough call. If a boot tear is caught really early, and there is still plenty of good grease inside, then just replacing the boot usually works. That's about $75, almost all labor. If there is any question about how long it's been failed, then assume the CV joint has been running with little grease and too much dirt. A replacement shaft is a good choice. Maybe $200 p&l.
Clank is probably the axle hitting the exhaust. Not a lot of clearance there with the hangers in place. A lot less without hangers.
Lights - could be grounding, more likely a bad connection in a switch. A hassle to trace, but cheap to fix.
Vacuum hoses - what else is new? No big deal.
Central locking - may be tied in with the interior lights, as they use the same fuse. Again, a little pain to trace, but usually not an expensive item.
Sticky door - There have been past posts on this, but it's usually the driver's side door. I'll bet that if you press on the door frame at the top, and then squeeze the lever, the door will open with no problem. That's because the latch/pin is a bit out of alignment. If you pull the door handle while squeezing the lever, the pull loads up the mechanism. If you press on the door, you releave the loading on the latch mechanism, and it opens fine. The solution is to adjust the door latch.
I don't understand needing a puller to open the gas cap door. The car has a locking door, but if the actuator dies, it usually dies open. At a minimum, use the manual release in the trunk (plastic tag on a wire, sticking out of the fabric liner of the trunk, just behind the filler door. You can go in and fix/replace the actuator, but I'd wait until you get central locking working - the filler door unlocks with the doors. Again, you can use the manual release, and then peel back the carpeting and pull the connector off the actuator. THe filler door won't lock, but that's not a biggie.
So let's review - you've got maybe $600 in repairs, assuming you farm out most of the work, and that covers some of the stuff you haven't found yet. So the car is $3,300. For that you got a car that sold for a hair over $30K 11 years ago, that is big, comfortable, and goes fast. You could have bought a new car, but the $3,300 nowdays buys the moonroof/heated seats/leather package on that new car - you still have to come up with another $25K for the rest of the car.
You haven't talked about the general car condition, maintenance history (or lack of), etc. So if the engine oil hasn't been changed since Clinton was in office, and there are bats living in the dry cooling system, yes, there are issues. But if the extent of the issues are a broken antenna mast, few missing exhaust hangers, and a minor electrical problem, then you did just fine.
posted by 192.249....
, Fri, 12 May 2006 05:33:26 <-- Viewing This Message
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