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To replace the bulbs in the switches see this write up. The link is for a 9-5 but the process is the same. the 9000 has only one bulb the 9-5 two.
btw you can buy new bulbs at eeuroparts if you prefer.
however that is not likely the cause of the heater not warming up. you probably have a broken wire element. Search the board on how to fix that. it is pretty easy to fix ... no so easy to get the seat cover off an on.
seat heater bulb
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'08 9⁵ 2.3T SportCombi, Polar White
'01 9⁵ Aero Midnight Blue (benched)
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'99 9⁵ Base model, Cosmic blue
'00 9⁵ Aero Silver (RIP - transmission )
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