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Useful advice on front bushing replacement w/pics Posted by Porschephile951 [Email] (#2169) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Porschephile951) on Wed, 25 Jul 2007 05:23:17 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Detailed below are some of the tricks to properly refreshing the front end bushings on the 1986-98 9000. It's not step-by step by any means, but for individuals who have not done this work before, or are novice/beginning do-it-yourselfers, this could certainly be useful.
This all began with the collapse of my front suspension in the parking lot of my work. It was pouring rain at night to add to the inconvenience, but I managed to reassemble the entire suspension and make the 50-mile trek back to my parents house (21-year-old college student, my resources still reside at 'rents far larger garage).
This is what can happen to you if you don't pay attention to a suspension system making noise.
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You can see that the fender has been distorted to the point the door will not open. This occured when the ball joint separated at the knuckle, causing the suspension system to collapse as I was driving roughly 5 mph.
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Here the rocker and associated trim pieces are substantially bent. This picture is after quite a bit of corrective bending.
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The CV ripped clear out, taking the boot with it. I had to cut off the center section to get the tripod bearing back into place in the parking lot.
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The culprit was a worn retaining bolt that keys the ball joint shaft into the hub knuckle. Remember to use high-grade partial thread bolts!!!
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Here is what appears to be a worn-out front control arm bushing. This is the one bushing I had never replaced on a 9000 during prior servicings on other 9ks I have owned. I will say this: believe people when they tell you that this bushing rarely fails. As shoddy and worn as it looks from the outside (particularly with the remnants of moly grease all over it from the CV), it was fine on the inside. You can see the broken bushing end cap. Don't forget to order these, 4 per car. They are almost always disintegrated and I'm not sure why places like TheSaabSite and EEuroparts don't emphasize it. I didn't order them and I'm having to use washers in their place until the proper parts arrive.
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Here one can see the evidence of a trashed rear control arm bushing, in this case from the driver's side. The two cracks in the first picture alluded to far more damage inside.
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Here is a comparison between new and old swaybar bushings. The picture doesn't do justice to how hardened and near total disintegration the old inner (the one with the most force acting upon it in use) bushing was.
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Many people attribute the hassle of changing the front control arm bushing with the requirement that a shop must press the old bushing out and the new one in. I found this completely unnecessary. Using a large, two-legged puller tool, I was able to use the edges of the control arm for the feet ("claws") and place the centre shaft onto the hollow end of the bushing. I easily pushed the old one out and the new one in. Make sure to use a lubricant such as Vaseline or dish soap (my preference) to facilitate the new bushing's placement, or you risk damaging it.
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Once the bushing is inserted, turn it so it is oriented properly using a vice grips or pliers. This is where lubricant is particularly essential, as it makes this and other fine adjustments while mounting several fold easier.
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You will invariably find that the metal sleeve of the worn bushing is completely separated from the rubber, often times seized on the control arm shaft. This can be a very troublesome situation, as applying longitundinal force is difficult. DO NOT USE VICE GRIPS OR ANY OTHER CLAMPING TOOL!!! This will crush the sleeve and make it nearly impossible to remove without actually cutting (I have had to cut through entire cast aluminum control arms on Porsches because of this). My method is simple: use a pipe wrench to work the sleeve free, with a helper pole on the end if needed. Once loose, the pipe wrench's biting nature allows you to place longitudinal force on it whilst rotating the sleeve on the shaft. I used a screw driver to help pry it off, though I found that most of the useful force comes from the pipe wrench.
Strange note; I found that the control arms pictured for sale on EEuroparts have these sleeves on them. I don't know what the dilly-o is, but that seems odd as the replacement bushings come with their own sleeves.
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If your car has seen any sort of moisture at all, you'll likely shear the swaybar end link. I always soak the nut on the bottom with PB Blaster several times, usually in a bout of some dillusional false hope that the end link might survive. Even if it does, it often times bends, causing it to alter the preload on swaybar; this in turn alters the symmetry of the system. If you're replacing swaybar bushings you probably care about the handling, and this will degrade it if not more than just having left it alone with the old bushings.
I used to order this piece, but it seemed absurd to pay $30 after shipping for it. I now just cut it right at the "eye" bolt and weld a new bolt from the hardware store on. If you're not handy with welding you can make a threaded sleeve to connect the remaining shaft with a new one.
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Make sure to clean all mating surfaces. Carburetor cleaner, probably the best, if not very volatile and ecologically-unfriendly, works awesome. Anything with a vapour pressure like that stuff is gonna take off some dirt. Coarse sandpaper works too.
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Here are all the items I ordered, which is everything you need barring replacement hardware and those aluminum bushing caps.
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There is the system, ready to be put back onto the car. I bought new washers for the swaybar end link-to-control arm bushings, along with high-grade bolts for the ball joint knuckle. One should replace the locknut that holds the rear bushing in place, as they are subject to rotating forces. Observant individuals will notice the one missing bolt.
Hope this helps somebody!
Evan
Milwaukee, WI
1986 951
1997 9000T
posted by 70.94.6...
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