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Re: Replacing Front Engine Mount, do I need to do Rear? Posted by Ari [Email]  (#2847) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from Ari) on Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:39:15
In Reply to: Replacing Front Engine Mount, do I need to do Rear?, David Kitchel, Mon, 28 Jul 2008 08:01:53 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
My feeling is to replace both. Once you're down there for the front one, the rear isn't that hard to get to. Quasi's method of dropping the subframe makes the rear one easy to get to.
The reason I recommend both is that it is highly unlikely that the top and front are in bad shape, but the rear is somehow in great shape. With the upper and front bushings shot, the rear will take the load. You'll be in there sooner than later.
As to upper torsion bar bushing removal - there are a few methods. Getting bushings out is easy; putting the new ones in is the trick. If you are using two-piece solid bushings, getting them in is easy. But if you're using the stock rubber one-piece bushings, they must be pressed in.
You can buy the tool from eEuroparts. I've used it with mixed success. Getting the bushings out is not hard, but it is hard to get the new ones in. Having used the tool a few times, my method is simple - I take the bits off and go to a machine shop to have the old ones pressed out and the new ones pressed in. The 'dogbone' comes out and that has one bushing. The engine side one is harder - you need to remove the alternator, or at least undo the upper bolt and push it to the side. That exposes the bolts for the engine mount bushing.
Is that a pain? Yes. But I've found it takes less time to do that than if the bushing tool has trouble. I've had issues with the bushing getting slighly cocked and binding going in. Hours of fun ensue.
YMMV
posted by 192.249....
, Mon, 28 Jul 2008 10:39:15 <-- Viewing This Message
, Mon, 28 Jul 2008 08:53:31
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