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Doors and autobox tips.
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Posted by buckmath [Email] (more from buckmath) on Sun, 17 Aug 2008 11:18:03 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Door lock buttons not attached. What the hay??, RayF, Sat, 16 Aug 2008 13:14:14
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Hi Ray - so you bought it.

The doors.
You've heard about the lights - to be honest they're not that useful, I wouldn't worry to much about them.

As for the locks.
1) The lock buttons. There's a mech in there that hooks up the electric and knobs with rods - I'll bet the plastic connectors are broken. You can get one that fits at most dealers (Honda, GM, etc.) - I can give you the GM part no if needed, but GM charges about $4.50 for them. You also have a master elec lock in drivers door, and slaves in the other doors. Let me know if you need extras - I think I've got some in the garage.

2) The lock mechanism. If you've got a frozen door - it's probably a frozen interior latch - now there's a design flaw IMO. This latch, mounted right above the catch, is not readily visible, but if you feel it, you'll find a rotating mechanism. It's mostly metal on metal and is subject to friction lockups. I spray silicone on these every time I open a door. You should be able to get the panels off with the door closed (it'll be a little frustrating). Once you spray it, wiggle it and eventually it'll loosen up. Spray again and work the mech - it'll work fine eventually.
While you are in the door put some silicone grease on the window tracks, they're probably a little dry and sticky by now.

Now the 9000 transmission is little different from the T37. (I'm pretty sure you were considering an autobox - same car as previous post?)

The ZF's have mixed reviews. I've had several and believe that the ZF is more robust than many others do - I haven't had a problem that valve body work didn't fix.

BUT, my bet is that the ATF needs changing. I use Mobil 1 synthetic - if the car isn't going to be pushed hard, pretty much any good compatible ATF will be fine. You'll probably notice the difference quickly.

Here's what I do with the ZF.
1) Order a new filter (NAPA or eeuro have OEM for less than $20). it comes with the gaskets you'll need.
2) Pick up a can of SeaFoan "Trans Tune" and a bottle of LubeGard Red - both available at NAPA too. You'll need about 12 quarts of ATF.
3) Put in the trans tune, and drive for a while. 5 mins in each gear 1-3 at 3000-3500 rpm, use the shifter, and then drive for a good 25 miles.
4) Start the fluid change. (Let it cool.) The trans has about a 3", 3 bolt, filter cover/drain - when you pull that you'll get an idea about wear from the magnet (my recent 9000 n/a obviously hadn't been opened in a while, no metal at all - the turbos tend to get more abuse.) When you take this plate off the filter stays in - leave it there until last drain.
5) Each drain only gets about 1/3 of the fluid out, so you drain and fill 3 times - 4 if it's filthy or burned. I usually do this on a series of days - you need to drive awhile between drains.
6) after third (fourth) drain pull the filter out with your fingers or a hook and press in a new one. Put new gasket on plate and close it up, add the LubeGard (Saab approved) and top off the ATF. (It does not take Type F like the 900 autoboxes.)

There are several other trans things that may be needed. A new A spring often cures shift delay in the lower end, and sometimes the kickdown cable needs to be adjusted. Let us know if you have up/down delayed shifting.
(Up delay = A spring, down delay = kickdown cable, usually.)

Other little things? Well, I've never had one that I didn't have to put new battery cable ends on, or new cables. Fuel filters are often ignored bcs they aren't obvious - for your 9k, it's a beer can size filter covered with a black plastic cover that looks like a shop light shield, and it should be pretty much under the frame at the back of the RR door. About $25.

As noted before, pull the plugs, evaluate them, and replace w new NGKs.

Also, watch ebay for a new DI cassette (red). A used one is usually in the $60-$100 range, depending on that week's demand. I got one for $20 bcs the seller didn't call it a Direct Ignition cassette. You may not need it, but when you do there's no substitute.

Once you get the 9k up, you'll find that it's very reliable and rarely needs anything more than routine things.

Best wishes, Buck
'88 900T
'90 9000T
'81 9000 n/a

posted by 24.14.178...


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