1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Good news for you, Diamond Dave, at end of this. Bear with me though.
First of all I have to say, sometimes I talk nonsense.
These things are very robust inside, not light bendable spring brass, so ignore my prior comments about maybe bending something touchy. I was remembering some switch I took apart recently with bad results, but not evidently the window switch. (That was on a '91 C900; I cleaned contacts not with 320 grit Tri-M-Ite as I did today but by scraping with the flat edge of a jeweler's screwdriver. All looked bright but didn't work so well. I replaced that entire switch with one from a clean car in junkyard, worked perfect.)
Today I took apart this switch on my new '96 9000CS, and had nearly perfect results. Cleaned all contacts with fine sandpaper as I said. It was hard to get at the fixed ones on the circuit board. One of those, for the passenger front window, had burned so bad it had a hole in it. It still was working though spotty, and now works well.
But I must have done something wrong as well. The driver side auto-lowering relay, which didn't work at all before I pulled this apart, now WON'T SHUT OFF, or if it does comes on again at random with window closed, then even if you override it and shut the window with the button, the relay is still on and immediately opens it again.
So I gotta pop this open again and see if I bent the two pieces of light spring brass (only ones in the switch) that latch the relay if you tip those two switches all the way forward.
And the auto-lowering relay on the passenger side still doesn't work.
The main reason I took it apart, though, was that the rear windows only worked spottily. The driver side one would go down and never up, and I had accidentally run it down some this A.M. and it was windy and raining.
Both on-door buttons work for rear windows now and didn't before, a plus.
Diamond Dave, here's my news for you: Of all those see-saw contacts inside, THREE are different from the rest.
The one with only one end is for the rear window on-off switch, crosswise.
The other two that are different HAVE NARROWER NOTCHES in their midsection, where they pivot.
Find those two; they go on the outside positions for the front windows, where the pivot points also are different, angled some.
If you had a total no-work situation, it's possibly because you got those mixed up and put them somewhere else.
Otherwise, it could be from unclean contacts or contacts not smooth, or because you let the see-saw pieces jump off their pivots as you lowered the top down.
I held my switch level by setting it on the two built-in relays at one end, and on top of the plastic rear cover at the other, while I lowered the top on. Did all my work outdoors on the rear parcel shelf, damn lazy stubborn fool me.
I put just a tiny dab of silicone plumbers grease on the spring-loaded points that tip the contacts as you rock the switches.
I popped it all open with a flexible stainless steel paring knife, working along the seams, though you obviously found a way to do that already.
Well back to my laboratory-sterile workshop to see if I can fix that relay problem.
posted by 70.105.22...
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